Cajun Chow Chow

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large nonreactive pot (8-quart stainless or enamel)
• •Large colander
• •Pint canning jars with lids and bands (6)
• •Canning funnel
• •Water bath canner or large stockpot with rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Salt the vegetables

   Combine the chopped green tomatoes, cabbage, onions, and all the peppers in your largest mixing bowl. Sprinkle the kosher salt over everything and toss with your hands until well distributed. The salt will draw moisture from the vegetables. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let sit at room temperature for at least four hours, or overnight if you've got the patience. This step is not optional. It pulls the bitterness out of the green tomatoes and gives the relish its signature crunch.

   My grandmother Evangeline always salted her vegetables overnight. She said the longer rest made sweeter chow chow. She was right.
2. 2

   Drain thoroughly

   Transfer the salted vegetables to a large colander set over the sink. Press down firmly with your hands or the back of a large spoon to squeeze out as much liquid as possible. You'll be amazed how much water comes out. Rinse briefly under cold water to remove excess salt, then press again. The vegetables should feel dry, not waterlogged. Wet vegetables make watery chow chow, and nobody wants that.

3. 3

   Build the pickling liquid

   In a large nonreactive pot (stainless steel or enamel, never aluminum), combine the apple cider vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, turmeric, dry mustard, cayenne, black pepper, and bay leaves. Set over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar dissolves completely. Bring to a boil. The kitchen will smell sharp and bright, that's the vinegar waking up the spices.

   Aluminum reacts with vinegar and gives your relish a metallic taste. At Lagniappe, we use heavy enamel pots for all our pickles and preserves.
4. 4

   Add vegetables and simmer

   Add the drained vegetables to the boiling pickling liquid. Stir well to coat everything with the spiced vinegar. Return to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. The vegetables should soften slightly but retain their texture. You want tender-crisp, not mush. The cabbage will turn slightly translucent, and the colors will brighten from the turmeric.

5. 5

   Taste and adjust

   Here's where you make it yours. Taste the liquid. Too sharp? Add another tablespoon of sugar. Not tangy enough? Splash in more vinegar. Want more heat? Stir in another quarter teaspoon of cayenne. The beauty of chow chow is that every family has their own balance. Find yours. Trust your palate. That's the bayou way.

   Remember that the flavors will mellow and marry as the chow chow sits. If it tastes perfectly balanced now, it might be a little flat in two weeks. Season slightly bolder than you think you need.
6. 6

   Pack the jars

   Remove the bay leaves. Using a slotted spoon, pack the hot vegetables into clean, hot pint jars, leaving about half an inch of headspace. Ladle the hot pickling liquid over the vegetables, making sure each jar has plenty of those mustard seeds settled at the bottom. Tap the jars gently on the counter to release any air bubbles. Wipe the rims clean with a damp cloth.

7. 7

   Seal and process

   Place lids on jars and screw on bands until fingertip tight. For shelf-stable storage, process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. For refrigerator pickles, simply let the jars cool to room temperature, then refrigerate. The chow chow is ready to eat immediately but improves dramatically after two weeks. The flavors need time to get acquainted.

   Processed jars will keep in a cool, dark pantry for up to one year. Refrigerator pickles last about three months. Either way, once opened, keep refrigerated and use within a month.

Chef Tips

• •Use truly green tomatoes, not ones that are starting to blush pink. The green ones have the right acidity and firmness for pickling. Ask your farmers market vendor to save you some at the end of the season.
• •Chop your vegetables to roughly the same size, about a quarter inch. This ensures even cooking and makes every bite consistent. A food processor works fine if you pulse carefully, but hand-chopping gives you better texture control.
• •The jalapeño heat can vary wildly from pepper to pepper. Taste a small piece before you add them. If they're screaming hot, use two instead of three. If they're mild, add a fourth. You can always add more cayenne at the end.
• •Chow chow is magic on black-eyed peas, butter beans, crowder peas, really any Southern legume. It cuts through the richness and adds brightness. We serve it tableside at Lagniappe with every pot of beans that leaves the kitchen.

Advance Preparation

• •Chow chow improves with time. Make it at least two weeks before you plan to serve it for best flavor. The sharp edges soften and the spices marry.
• •Properly processed and sealed jars keep in a cool, dark pantry for up to one year. Once opened, refrigerate and use within one month.
• •Refrigerator-only chow chow (not water bath processed) keeps for about three months. The texture stays crisper without the processing step, so if you've got the fridge space, it's worth considering.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 30g)