
Chef Dean
Antipasto Tortellini Salad
Plump cheese tortellini tumbled with the greatest hits of the Italian deli counter, all glossed in a garlicky herb vinaigrette that improves as it sits. This is the potluck dish that comes home empty.
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Silky leaves of butter lettuce dressed at the last moment in a properly emulsified shallot vinaigrette, scattered with soft herbs and served with the quiet confidence of a Parisian bistro that has nothing to prove.
This is the salad they serve at every serious bistro in France. Not because it's complicated. Because it's perfect. Tender leaves of butter lettuce, so delicate they bruise if you look at them crossly, dressed in a vinaigrette that clings without drowning. The French have been making this salad for generations, and they haven't changed it because nothing needs changing.
The secret lives in the vinaigrette. A proper French dressing is an emulsion, not a separation of oil and vinegar that you shake hopefully before each use. You build it slowly, whisking mustard and acid together first, then adding oil in a thin stream until the mixture thickens and becomes creamy. This coating action is what makes the difference between a salad that tastes dressed and one that tastes wet.
I learned to make this vinaigrette in a cramped kitchen in the Marais from a cook who measured nothing and tasted everything. She would add vinegar until the dressing made her wince, then oil until it didn't. That's the balance you're seeking: enough acid to brighten, enough fat to round the edges. The shallot provides sweetness and a gentle bite. The tarragon adds its peculiar anise whisper. Together, they transform humble lettuce into something worthy of your best dinner plates.
Quantity
2 heads (about 1 pound total)
Quantity
1 large (about 3 tablespoons)
minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
6 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
roughly chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
cut into 1-inch batons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| butter lettuce | 2 heads (about 1 pound total) |
| shallotminced | 1 large (about 3 tablespoons) |
| red wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/4 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 6 tablespoons |
| fresh tarragonroughly chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh chivescut into 1-inch batons | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh chervil (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| flaky sea salt | for finishing |
Choose butter lettuce heads that feel heavy for their size with tightly furled centers. The outer leaves may show some browning at the edges. That's fine. Peel them away until you reach the pale, tender heart. Separate the leaves gently, keeping smaller inner leaves whole and tearing larger outer leaves into manageable pieces. Submerge in cold water and swirl gently to release any grit. Lift the leaves out (don't pour through a colander, which forces grit back onto them) and spin dry in batches.
Place the minced shallot in a small bowl with the red wine vinegar and a pinch of salt. Let this sit for ten to fifteen minutes while you prepare everything else. The acid softens the shallot's harsh bite and turns it almost sweet. You'll notice the shallot pieces turn slightly pink at the edges. This is the transformation you want.
Add the Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper to the shallot mixture. Whisk until combined. The mustard contains compounds that help oil and vinegar bind together, creating a stable emulsion. Now add the olive oil in a very thin stream, whisking constantly. Start with drops, then graduate to a thread as the mixture begins to thicken. The finished vinaigrette should coat the back of a spoon and look creamy, not separated.
Dip a lettuce leaf into the vinaigrette and taste. The dressing should make your mouth water slightly from the acid, then smooth out with the richness of the oil. Adjust salt first, then vinegar if needed. Remember that the dressing will be diluted slightly when tossed with the leaves, so it should taste a bit assertive on its own.
Place the dry lettuce in your largest mixing bowl. You need room to toss without bruising. Add about two-thirds of the vinaigrette and toss gently with your hands or two large spoons, lifting from the bottom and turning the leaves over. Every surface should glisten but not drip. Add more dressing only if needed. Scatter the tarragon, chives, and chervil over the leaves and toss once more, gently.
Transfer the salad to a wide, shallow serving bowl or divide among individual plates, mounding the leaves with some height rather than pressing flat. Finish with a few flakes of sea salt scattered over the top. Serve within minutes. Dressed butter lettuce waits for no one. The delicate leaves begin to wilt the moment vinaigrette touches them, and there is no recovery from a soggy salad.
1 serving (about 235g)
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