
Chef Lupita
Almendrados Conventuales Poblanos
Puebla's convent almond cookies, made from blanched almonds, sugar syrup, egg yolks, canela, and patient hands, the kind of sweet that belongs beside coffee in talavera, not in a plastic bakery box.
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Tabasco's posada-season buñuelos are thin rectangular wheat pastries fried until blistered, then finished with canela sugar or a dark miel de piloncillo that belongs on the holiday table.
Tabasco, especially the low river country around Villahermosa, Comalcalco, Cunduacán, and the Chontalpa, makes buñuelos with the practical hand of a humid-state kitchen. These are not the giant round buñuelos from central Mexico. These are cut in rectangles, rolled thin, fried until the surface blisters and crackles, then dusted with azúcar y canela or bathed in miel de piloncillo. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
The wheat flour tells you the colonial story, but the table tells you Tabasco. Piloncillo, canela, a little orange zest, manteca de cerdo in the dough, and a clay bowl of syrup beside a basket lined with a clean servilleta. A señora in a Tabasco kitchen does not make these because they are fancy. She makes them because posadas need something generous, crisp, sweet, and inexpensive enough to feed whoever walks through the door.
Roll the dough thin and let it rest. That is the work. The resting relaxes the dough so it stretches instead of fighting you, and the thinness is what gives the buñuelo its crackled bite. No me vengas con atajos. Thick dough gives you fried bread. Thin dough gives you buñuelo. Así se hace y punto.
Buñuelos arrived in Mexico through Spanish colonial frying and convent baking traditions in the 16th and 17th centuries, then regional cooks adapted them with local sweeteners, especially piloncillo and Mexican canela. In Tabasco, the rectangular fried wheat version became tied to Christmas posadas and household holiday cooking, distinct from the large round buñuelos common in central Mexico. The use of piloncillo syrup reflects the sugarcane economy that shaped southeastern Mexican sweets from the colonial period forward.
Quantity
3 cups, plus more for rolling
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
softened
Quantity
1
lightly beaten
Quantity
3/4 cup, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if needed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 cups
for frying
Quantity
1/2 cup
for dusting
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for dusting
Quantity
8 ounces
chopped
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 strip
Quantity
1 pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose wheat flour | 3 cups, plus more for rolling |
| granulated sugar | 2 tablespoons |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground Mexican canela | 1 teaspoon |
| manteca de cerdosoftened | 2 tablespoons |
| large egglightly beaten | 1 |
| warm water | 3/4 cup, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if needed |
| orange zest | 1 teaspoon |
| manteca de cerdo or neutral oilfor frying | 3 cups |
| granulated sugarfor dusting | 1/2 cup |
| ground Mexican canelafor dusting | 1 teaspoon |
| piloncillochopped | 8 ounces |
| water | 1 1/2 cups |
| Mexican canela stick | 1 |
| whole cloves | 2 |
| orange peel | 1 strip |
| fine sea salt | 1 pinch |
In a wide bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and ground canela. Rub in the softened manteca with your fingertips until the flour feels sandy. Add the beaten egg, warm water, and orange zest. Mix until a rough dough forms. La manteca es el sabor, and here it also gives you the blistered surface that makes a proper buñuelo.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured table and knead for 6 to 8 minutes, until smooth and elastic but not sticky. Divide into 24 small balls, cover with a clean cloth, and rest for 30 minutes. Do not skip the rest. The dough needs to relax so you can roll it thin without tearing it.
While the dough rests, combine the chopped piloncillo, water, canela stick, cloves, orange peel, and salt in a small saucepan. Simmer over medium-low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, until the piloncillo dissolves and the syrup lightly coats a spoon. Strain and keep warm. It should taste dark, mineral, and warm from the canela, not like plain sugar water.
Roll each dough ball on a floured surface into a very thin oval or rectangle, about 6 by 4 inches. Trim into rectangles if you want clean panadería edges. Stack them between lightly floured cloths while you work. You should almost see the shadow of your hand through the dough. Thick buñuelos puff like pillows and stay soft. That is not what we are making.
Heat the manteca de cerdo or oil in a deep, heavy pan to 350F. If you do not have a thermometer, drop in a tiny scrap of dough. It should rise quickly and bubble around the edges without turning dark immediately. Keep the heat steady. Too cool and the buñuelos drink fat. Too hot and they brown before they crisp.
Fry one or two rectangles at a time, pressing gently with tongs so they stay mostly flat. Cook 45 to 60 seconds per side, until golden, blistered, and crisp. The surface should look crackled, with tiny raised bubbles across the dough. Drain on a rack, not paper towels if you can avoid it. A rack keeps the bottom crisp.
Mix the dusting sugar with the ground canela. Sprinkle the hot buñuelos lightly, or serve them plain with the warm miel de piloncillo in a clay bowl for dipping and drenching. Do both if the table is full. Buñuelos are made for sharing during posadas, not for counting one by one like a nervous accountant.
1 serving (about 50g)
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