
Chef Zohra
Boulfaf (بولفاف)
Eid begins at the brazier with sheep liver kissed by coals, wrapped in caul fat, and shared fast with khobz while the house is still busy around the sacrifice.
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The lighter skewer of the Moroccan grill: chicken cut small, rubbed with garlic, coriander, cumin, paprika, and honest ras el hanout, then charred quickly and tucked into khobz while everyone reaches.
The first thing you smell is coriander hitting hot charcoal, then garlic, then the sweet red breath of paprika. Brochettes de poulet are the lighter skewer of the Moroccan grill, the one you order when the stall is crowded and everyone is eating with bread in hand. They don't ask for ceremony. They ask for a hot fire, honest spice, and chicken cut small enough that the marinade can hold it.
Cut the pieces even, then give them time in grated onion, garlic, fresh coriander, parsley, cumin, paprika, ginger, and a little ras el hanout if your blend is alive. That is the rule that decides the dish: the grill must be hot before the chicken touches it, so the outside browns fast while the inside stays juicy. A lukewarm grill dries chicken before it gives you those dark, fragrant edges.
Serve the skewers straight from the fire with khobz, olives, and a chopped tomato salad if the tomatoes are in their good season. Pull one more chair close. Une table, c'est une porte qu'on laisse ouverte, a table is a door you leave open, and brochettes are made for hands reaching across the plate.
Brochette is the French word that entered Moroccan restaurant and market speech during the 20th century, but qotban, skewered meat cooked over coals, is older in Arabic-speaking Morocco. Grill stalls and weekly souks from Oujda to Marrakech have long sold skewers of lamb, liver, kefta, and later chicken; poultry brochettes grew more common with modern urban poultry markets in the 20th century. There is no single Moroccan brochette, des cuisines marocaines, Moroccan cuisines plural, shows itself here too, with cumin stronger in some houses and paprika and fresh coriander louder in others.
Quantity
750g
cut into 2.5 cm pieces
Quantity
1 small
finely grated
Quantity
3
minced to a paste
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely chopped
Quantity
1/4 cup
finely chopped
Quantity
2 tbsp
Quantity
2 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp
from a fresh blend whose merchant can name the spices
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1 1/4 tsp
Quantity
1 tbsp
Quantity
1
cut into wedges for serving
Quantity
as needed
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless skinless chicken thighs or breastcut into 2.5 cm pieces | 750g |
| onionfinely grated | 1 small |
| garlic clovesminced to a paste | 3 |
| fresh coriander (cilantro), leaves and tender stemsfinely chopped | 1/2 cup |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 1/4 cup |
| olive oil | 2 tbsp |
| sweet paprika | 2 tsp |
| ground cumin | 1 tsp |
| ground ginger | 1 tsp |
| ground turmeric | 1/2 tsp |
| ras el hanoutfrom a fresh blend whose merchant can name the spices | 1 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| fine sea salt | 1 1/4 tsp |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tbsp |
| lemon (optional)cut into wedges for serving | 1 |
| round khobz, olives, and chopped tomato salad (optional)for serving | as needed |
Pat the chicken dry and cut it into pieces about 2.5 cm wide. Keep them close in size so they finish together; on a skewer, the smallest piece dries while the largest still waits.
In a wide bowl, mix the grated onion, garlic, coriander, parsley, olive oil, paprika, cumin, ginger, turmeric, ras el hanout, black pepper, salt, and lemon juice. If the onion is very wet, squeeze away a little liquid first. You want a thick green-red paste that clings to the chicken, not a bath.
Add the chicken to the bowl and turn it with your hands until every piece is stained with spice and herbs. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 8 hours. If you are marinating longer than 2 hours, hold back the lemon juice and add it for the last 30 minutes, so the surface of the chicken stays firm.
If using wooden skewers, soak them while the chicken rests. Thread 5 or 6 pieces onto each skewer, close enough to look generous but not squeezed tight. The heat needs to touch the edges, because those browned edges are where the grill speaks.
Prepare a charcoal grill until the coals are glowing and pale at the edges, or heat a grill pan until a drop of oil shimmers on contact. Oil the grate lightly. Put the skewers down only when the heat is ready; a cool grill sticks first and dries the chicken next.
Grill the brochettes for 8 to 12 minutes, turning every 2 or 3 minutes, until the chicken is golden from the paprika and turmeric with dark marks at the edges. Do not baste with used marinade, it has held raw chicken. The center should reach 74 C, 165 F, or show opaque flesh with clear juices when you cut into the largest piece.
Let the brochettes rest for 3 minutes, just long enough for the juices to settle. Scatter with a little fresh coriander if you like, squeeze lemon over at the table, and serve with round khobz, olives, and a chopped tomato salad. The bread is not decoration. It catches the spice, the oil, and the last good drops.
1 serving (about 370g)
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