
Chef Margarida
Areias de Cascais
The sand cookies of Cascais, where three simple ingredients become something that melts on your tongue and sparkles like the beach at sunset. Butter, flour, sugar. That's all. That's enough.
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Golden corn cakes from northern Portugal, where milho has fed families for centuries. Dense, crumbly, sweetened just enough to serve with coffee or eat standing at the kitchen counter.
These are the cakes my grandmother's neighbors in Minho would bring when they came to visit. Small golden rounds wrapped in cloth napkins, still warm from the oven, filling the kitchen with that unmistakable smell of toasted corn. Avó Leonor wasn't from the north, but she learned to make them because she loved them. And she taught me.
Broas de milho doces are peasant baking at its purest. Corn flour, a little wheat to hold it together, sugar, eggs, butter. That's it. The corn does the work. Good milho flour has a sweetness all its own, earthy and golden, the taste of northern Portugal in every crumb.
In Minho, corn is everything. It arrived from the Americas five centuries ago and took over the region's kitchens. Broa, the dense corn bread, is eaten at every meal. These sweet broas are the festive cousins, made for romarias, for visits, for wrapping up and taking to a neighbor who just had a baby. They're not fancy. They're not trying to be anything other than what they are.
At Mesa da Avó, I serve these with strong coffee at the end of the meal. People always ask for the recipe. They can't believe something so simple tastes so good. But that's Portuguese baking. The humblest ingredients, treated with respect, become something you can't stop eating.
Corn arrived in Portugal from the Americas in the early 16th century and transformed the agriculture of Minho, where the cool, wet climate proved ideal for cultivation. Broa became the region's daily bread, and sweet versions emerged for festivals and celebrations. These broas doces were traditionally baked in wood-fired ovens and sold at romarias (religious festivals) across northern Portugal.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
125g
softened
Quantity
3 large
Quantity
1
zested
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fine corn flour (farinha de milho fina) | 250g |
| all-purpose wheat flour | 100g |
| sugar | 150g |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 125g |
| eggs | 3 large |
| lemonzested | 1 |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
Heat your oven to 180°C (350°F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. The parchment matters here because these cakes are delicate and will stick to an unlined pan.
In a large bowl, whisk together the corn flour, wheat flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder. The corn flour should be fine, almost like regular flour in texture. Coarse cornmeal won't work here. You want that smooth, dense crumb that makes these cakes special.
Add the softened butter to the flour mixture. Using your fingertips or a pastry cutter, work the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse sand with some pea-sized pieces remaining. This is like making a crumbly pastry. Don't overwork it. The texture should be uneven.
Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl. Add the lemon zest to the eggs. Pour into the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until a soft, slightly sticky dough forms. It won't be smooth. It shouldn't be. The dough will feel dense and a bit grainy from the corn flour. That's exactly right.
With lightly floured hands (use corn flour for this), take small portions of dough, about 30g each, and roll into balls. Place on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 4cm apart. Flatten each ball slightly with your palm or the bottom of a glass dipped in flour. They should be about 1.5cm thick. Some bakers press a fork pattern into the tops. Avó Leonor never did, but do what you like.
Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, until the edges turn golden and the tops develop a light golden color with a few darker spots. The centers will still look slightly pale. They firm up as they cool. Don't overbake or they'll be dry. The corn flour dries out faster than wheat.
Let the broas cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. They're best eaten the same day, still slightly warm, with a strong coffee. But they'll keep in a tin for several days, and they soften beautifully if you warm them for a few seconds before eating.
1 serving (about 30g)
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