
Chef Remy
Andouille and Potato Hash
Smoky andouille sausage nestled among golden, shatteringly crisp potatoes and the holy trinity of peppers and onions, the kind of generous Louisiana breakfast that keeps you going until dinner.
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Created by Chef Remy
Homemade pork and rice sausage with three-pepper heat and fresh herbs, stuffed into natural casings and pan-fried until the casing crackles and the filling stays impossibly moist inside.
Boudin is the soul of Cajun breakfast. Drive the back roads between Lafayette and Lake Charles on any Saturday morning and you'll see pickup trucks lined up at gas stations and meat markets, folks buying links by the pound. They eat them right there in the parking lot, squeezing the filling straight from the casing into their mouths. That's boudin country.
My grandmother Evangeline made boudin every hog-killing day in November. Nothing went to waste on the bayou. The shoulder went into boudin, the scraps into cracklins, the liver into this very recipe. Four generations of Boudreaux cooks taught me that good food comes from respecting the animal and using everything it gives you.
Making boudin at home takes time, but not skill you don't already have. You poach pork until it falls apart, grind it with rice and the holy trinity of seasonings (cayenne, black pepper, white pepper), stuff it into casings, and fry until the outside crackles. The filling stays soft and moist, held together by the rice, perfumed with parsley and green onion. When the last bite is as good as the first, you've done it right.
At Lagniappe, we serve these links with eggs over easy and a side of pepper jelly. The sweet heat cuts through the richness. But honestly, good boudin needs nothing at all. Just a napkin and someone to share it with.
Quantity
2 pounds
cut into 2-inch cubes
Quantity
1 pound
optional but traditional
Quantity
1 large
roughly chopped
Quantity
4
white and green parts, roughly chopped
Quantity
1 medium
roughly chopped
Quantity
1/2 medium
roughly chopped
Quantity
4
smashed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
about 8 cups
Quantity
2 cups
cooled
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely chopped
Quantity
4
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
about 8 feet
soaked and rinsed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless pork shouldercut into 2-inch cubes | 2 pounds |
| pork liveroptional but traditional | 1 pound |
| yellow onionroughly chopped | 1 large |
| green onionswhite and green parts, roughly chopped | 4 |
| celery stalkroughly chopped | 1 medium |
| green bell pepperroughly chopped | 1/2 medium |
| garlic clovessmashed | 4 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| whole black peppercorns | 1 teaspoon |
| kosher salt (for poaching) | 1 tablespoon |
| water | about 8 cups |
| cooked long-grain white ricecooled | 2 cups |
| fresh parsleyfinely chopped | 1/2 cup |
| green onion topsthinly sliced | 4 |
| cayenne pepper | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| white pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried thyme | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground sage | 1/4 teaspoon |
| kosher salt (for seasoning) | 1 teaspoon |
| natural hog casingssoaked and rinsed | about 8 feet |
| vegetable oil or bacon fat | 2 tablespoons |
Place the pork shoulder cubes and liver (if using) in a large Dutch oven or stockpot. Add the chopped onion, green onions, celery, bell pepper, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, and one tablespoon of salt. Cover everything with cold water by about two inches. Cold water is important here because it draws flavor out of the meat and vegetables slowly, building a broth that becomes part of the boudin itself.
Bring the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a gentle simmer. You want lazy bubbles, not a rolling boil. Cook uncovered for about an hour to an hour and fifteen minutes, until the pork is fork-tender and falling apart. The liver will cook faster, so check it at 45 minutes and remove if it's done. The kitchen should smell like Sunday dinner at my grandmother Evangeline's house: pork, onions, and bay leaf mingling together.
Use a slotted spoon to transfer the meat to a large bowl. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into another container and reserve it. You'll need about a cup of this liquid to moisten the filling. Discard the spent vegetables and aromatics. They've given everything they had.
Let the meat cool until you can handle it comfortably. Remove any remaining fat or gristle. Using a meat grinder fitted with the coarse plate, grind the pork and liver together. If you don't have a grinder, pulse in a food processor until you get a coarse texture, but don't turn it into paste. You want pieces, not baby food. Work in batches if needed.
In your largest mixing bowl, combine the ground meat with the cooled rice. Add the fresh parsley and sliced green onion tops. Now the seasoning: cayenne, black pepper, white pepper, thyme, sage, and one teaspoon of salt. Mix everything together with your hands. This is the only way to do it properly. You need to feel the texture and ensure every grain of rice is coated with meat and seasoning.
Here's where you taste, taste, taste. Fry up a small patty in a hot skillet and eat it. Is it moist enough? Add reserved poaching liquid, two tablespoons at a time, until the mixture is wet but holds together. Is the seasoning right? Adjust the cayenne and salt until it sings. At Lagniappe, we taste the filling at least three times before we stuff a single casing. That's the bayou way.
Rinse the soaked hog casings under cool running water, flushing water through the inside to check for holes. Cut into manageable lengths, about two feet each. Slide one length onto your sausage stuffer tube, bunching it up accordion-style, and tie a knot at the end. Leave about three inches of empty casing before you start stuffing.
Fill your stuffer with the boudin mixture and begin cranking slowly. Support the casing with your other hand, guiding it off the tube as it fills. Don't overstuff. The casing should be plump but not tight, with enough give that you can twist it into links without bursting. When you've used one length, twist into five-inch links, then tie off and start the next casing.
Lay the finished links on a sheet pan in a single layer. Refrigerate uncovered for at least two hours, or overnight. This dries the casings slightly and allows the flavors to marry. Fresh boudin is good. Rested boudin is better.
Heat two tablespoons of oil or bacon fat in a large cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add the links without crowding and cook, turning occasionally, for eight to ten minutes total. You're looking for golden-brown casings with darker spots where they kissed the iron. The inside is already cooked from the poaching, so you're just heating through and crisping the outside. When the casing is taut and the links feel firm when pressed, they're ready.
1 serving (about 185g)
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