
Chef Jeong-sun
Albap (Flying-Fish Roe Rice Bowl)
A quick Korean rice bowl built on contrast: warm rice, cold popping flying-fish roe, chopped vegetables, gim, sesame oil, and the crisp rice bottom a hot stone bowl gives you.
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Soft barley folded with short-grain rice, the lean bowl of older kitchens now eaten with separately seasoned namul and a thick spoon of gangdoenjang, mixed only when it reaches the table.
Bori-bap looks humble enough that people treat it like plain mixed rice, then they complain the barley is hard. The dish lives or dies before the rice pot begins: boil the barley until it gives under the tooth, because rice and barley do not soften at the same pace. My teacher made us chew three grains before she let us drain the pot. She was not being poetic. She was preventing a bad dinner.
This was lean food in many households, the bowl that stretched white rice when white rice had to be stretched. Now people choose it because the chew is good, the table feels clean, and a spoon of gangdoenjang (thick soybean paste sauce) makes plain grain eat like a full meal. Tonight it asks for order: soft barley rice, vegetables seasoned one by one, and sauce reduced thick enough to cling. Dump everything together too early and you get one tired color.
I measure one cup barley to one and a half cups rice because that gives you the honest bite of bori-bap without making the bowl heavy. The namul must each have its own bowl and its own seasoning. Soybean sprouts are not spinach, and zucchini is not either of them. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Before white rice became ordinary for most households, Korean meals often stretched rice with barley, millet, beans, or sorghum; barley was tied especially to bori gogae (the barley pass), the late-spring hunger gap when old rice ran out before the new barley harvest. During South Korea's rice-shortage years in the 1960s and 1970s, government honbunsik mixed-grain campaigns made barley rice a public habit as well as a household economy. Today bori-bap is often chosen for its chew and plainness, served in rural market restaurants with namul and gangdoenjang rather than endured as poverty food.
Quantity
1 cup (180g)
rinsed
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1 1/2 cups (300g)
rinsed until the water runs mostly clear
Quantity
1 3/4 cups
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 1/4 cups
Quantity
1 piece, about 3 inches square
Quantity
5
heads and guts removed
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely diced
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely diced
Quantity
1/3 cup
finely diced
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
150g
crumbled or diced small
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
250g
rinsed
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
200g
trimmed
Quantity
1 medium (about 250g)
cut into matchsticks
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
divided
Quantity
2 1/2 teaspoons
divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon
divided
Quantity
1 tablespoon
divided
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
a small handful
thinly sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pearled barley or Korean pressed barley (bori)rinsed | 1 cup (180g) |
| water for parboiling barley | 4 cups |
| short-grain white ricerinsed until the water runs mostly clear | 1 1/2 cups (300g) |
| water for cooking rice | 1 3/4 cups |
| fine sea salt for rice (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| water for anchovy-kelp broth | 1 1/4 cups |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 3 inches square |
| large dried anchovies (myeolchi)heads and guts removed | 5 |
| doenjang (fermented soybean paste) | 3 tablespoons |
| onionfinely diced | 1/2 cup |
| zucchini for gangdoenjangfinely diced | 1/2 cup |
| potatofinely diced | 1/3 cup |
| garlic for gangdoenjangminced | 2 cloves |
| firm tofucrumbled or diced small | 150g |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| green chili (optional)finely chopped | 1 |
| scallionthinly sliced | 1 |
| toasted sesame oil for gangdoenjang | 1 teaspoon |
| soybean sproutsrinsed | 250g |
| water for soybean sprouts | 1/2 cup |
| spinachtrimmed | 200g |
| zucchini for namulcut into matchsticks | 1 medium (about 250g) |
| neutral oil | 2 teaspoons |
| minced garlic for namuldivided | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| toasted sesame oil for namuldivided | 2 1/2 teaspoons |
| soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang) or regular soy sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt for namuldivided | 3/4 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seedsdivided | 1 tablespoon |
| kimchi | to serve |
| perilla leaves or lettuce (optional)thinly sliced | a small handful |
Rinse the barley until the water is no longer dusty. Put it in a medium pot with 4 cups water and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat and boil gently for 25 minutes for pearled barley, or 10 to 12 minutes for Korean pressed barley, until the grains swell and give under your teeth but still hold their shape. Drain well. Barley and rice do not soften at the same pace, and this is the step that keeps bori-bap from eating like pebbles.
While the barley boils, rinse the short-grain rice in several changes of water until the water runs mostly clear. Soak it in fresh water for 20 minutes, then drain it for 10 minutes. Soaking lets the center of each grain cook evenly, and draining keeps the finished rice from turning wet at the bottom of the pot.
Combine the drained barley, drained rice, 1 3/4 cups water, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a heavy 3-quart pot. Bring to a boil uncovered over medium-high heat, then cook 5 to 7 minutes, until the water level drops to the surface of the grains and small holes appear. Cover tightly, lower the heat to the lowest setting, and cook 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the pot rest, still covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff gently from the bottom so the barley and rice mix without crushing each other.
Put 1 1/4 cups water, the kelp, and the cleaned anchovies in a small pot. Bring it just to a simmer, then pull out the kelp before it turns the broth slick and bitter. Simmer the anchovies 8 minutes more, then remove them. You should have about 1 cup of clean, savory broth.
Add the onion, diced zucchini, potato, and minced garlic to the broth and simmer 5 minutes, until the potato is nearly tender. Mash the doenjang into a ladleful of broth, then stir it back into the pot so there are no salty lumps. Add the tofu and gochugaru if using, and simmer 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until thick and spoonable. Finish with the green chili, scallion, and 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Gangdoenjang (thick soybean paste sauce) should cling to the barley rice, not flood it like soup.
Put the soybean sprouts, 1/2 cup water, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a pot. Cover before turning on the heat. Bring to a boil, then cook 6 minutes without lifting the lid. Drain well and season in its own bowl with 1 teaspoon sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds. Pick lid on or lid off for sprouts and stay with it; half-cooked sprouts hit with cold air develop a raw smell that follows the dish to the table.
Blanch the spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds, just until it collapses and turns deep green. Rinse under cold water, squeeze firmly, and cut into 2-inch lengths. Season in a separate bowl with 1 teaspoon soup soy sauce, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic, and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds. Spinach wants a light hand. If you season it like the sprouts, it disappears.
Toss the zucchini matchsticks with 1/4 teaspoon salt and let them sit 5 minutes, then squeeze lightly. Heat 2 teaspoons neutral oil in a skillet over medium heat and cook the zucchini 2 to 3 minutes, only until flexible and glossy. Move it to its own bowl and season with 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic, and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds. Salting first pulls out excess water, so the bori-bap does not turn loose and watery when you mix it.
Scoop the barley rice into wide bowls while it is warm. Arrange the soybean sprouts, spinach, and zucchini in separate piles, then add a generous spoon of gangdoenjang. Add kimchi and sliced perilla or lettuce if using. Let each person mix at the table, tasting before adding anything else. Gochujang is not needed here unless the table insists, and even then, use a small spoon. Let it taste like barley, vegetables, and doenjang.
1 serving (about 520g)
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