
Chef Isabel
Almussafes Valenciano
Almussafes is Valencian bar-counter food: a crusty roll filled with sobrasada, cheese, and onion, then pressed on the plancha until the bread crisps and the filling runs together.
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Castile's bocadillo of Burgos morcilla is plain and exact: rice-and-onion blood sausage fried until the edges crisp hard, then tucked into crusty bread with a sweet piquillo pepper.
Bocadillo de Morcilla de Burgos is Castilian, more exactly Burgos in Castilla y León: a crusty roll filled with rice-and-onion blood sausage fried until the edges crisp, with a sweet piquillo pepper to cut the richness. What makes it Burgos is the morcilla itself. It has rice and plenty of onion, often cebolla horcal, so the slice is tender and grainy instead of dense like other blood sausages.
The method that decides it is not the bread. It's the frying. Morcilla de Burgos can go soft and pasty if you only warm it through, and nobody needs a timid morcilla. Slice it thick, keep it cold until the pan is ready, and crisp both faces hard enough that the centre stays soft but the edges hold. Then it sits in the bread instead of sinking into it.
If you're far from Burgos, look first for any Spanish morcilla de arroz, rice morcilla. If all you can get is British black pudding or another blood sausage, it will be firmer, pepperier, and less sweet from the onion, so cut it thinner and know the sandwich changes. For the piquillo, a jarred roasted red pepper works if you dry it well in the pan. No hace falta haber pisado España. You do need the hot pan, good bread, and the sense to eat it at once. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Morcilla de Burgos belongs to the matanza of Castilla y León, the household pig slaughter where fresh blood had to be seasoned, mixed, and cooked before it spoiled. Its mark is rice and plenty of onion, traditionally the mild cebolla horcal, which separates it from blood sausages in other regions that may use bread, pumpkin, or less grain. Fried in slices and put into bread, it became a plain Castilian bar and market food: portable, filling, and made from the larder already there.
Quantity
2 (120-140g each)
split lengthwise, hinged if possible
Quantity
300g
kept cold and sliced into 1.5cm rounds
Quantity
4 (about 90g drained)
drained, patted dry, opened flat
Quantity
20ml
Quantity
1 pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| crusty bocadillo rolls or pan de barra piecessplit lengthwise, hinged if possible | 2 (120-140g each) |
| morcilla de Burgoskept cold and sliced into 1.5cm rounds | 300g |
| piquillo peppersdrained, patted dry, opened flat | 4 (about 90g drained) |
| extra virgin olive oil | 20ml |
| fine salt (optional) | 1 pinch |
Keep the morcilla cold until the last moment, then cut it into 1.5cm rounds with a sharp knife. If the casing is natural and tender, leave it on; if it is plastic or tough, peel it away. Split the bread lengthwise without cutting all the way through, and pat the piquillo peppers dry. Wet peppers and warm sausage make a soft bocadillo before the pan has had its say.
Set a heavy frying pan over medium heat and add 5ml of the olive oil. Lay the piquillo peppers open in the pan, salt them lightly, and cook for about 1 minute per side until glossy and a little drier at the edges. Lift them out and keep them on a plate. If you're using ordinary jarred roasted red pepper, give it another minute, because it carries more water.
Add the remaining 15ml olive oil and raise the heat to medium-high. Lay in the morcilla slices in one layer, with space between them, and leave them alone for 2.5 to 3 minutes on the first side. Turn carefully with a thin spatula and cook the second side for about 2 minutes. The faces should be dark and crisp-edged, with the rice visible inside and the centre still tender. This crust is the whole trick; without it, the filling turns pasty in the bread.
Move the morcilla to a warm plate. Put the bread cut side down in the same pan for 30 to 45 seconds, just long enough to catch the morcilla oil and lightly crisp the crumb. Don't toast it dry and brittle; the bread should still close around the filling.
Lay two piquillo peppers inside each roll, then divide the crisp morcilla slices between them. Close the bread and press gently, enough to settle the filling without crushing it. Eat the bocadillo at once, while the edges of the morcilla still have bite.
1 serving (about 320g)
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