
Chef Ally
All-Butter Croissants
Shatteringly crisp, impossibly tender, and layered with the finest butter you can find. Two days of patience rewarded with the most honest croissant you will ever bake.
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Tender, buttery shells filled with jewel-toned curd made from blood oranges at their peak, the kind of winter dessert that reminds you the sun will return.
Blood oranges arrive in January when the days are shortest. Their flesh runs from deep garnet to ruby streaked with crimson, and their flavor sits somewhere between orange and raspberry, with a brightness that startles. This is the moment to use them.
The curd is simple. Juice, zest, butter, eggs, sugar. You cook it gently until it thickens, then let it set in shells made with the best butter you can find. Perfect ingredients need almost nothing done to them. The technique here is restraint.
I learned to make curd in a farmhouse kitchen where the eggs came from hens scratching in the yard and the citrus grew in a neighbor's orchard. The woman teaching me said you could taste carelessness in a curd, that rushing the cooking or skimping on butter showed up on the tongue. She was right. Good food takes the time it takes.
These tartlets are meant for sharing. They travel well, they wait patiently, and they taste like winter sunshine concentrated into something you can hold in your hand. Every meal is a meaningful choice. Choosing to make these means choosing to honor a fleeting season.
Quantity
1 1/2 cups (190g)
Quantity
1/2 cup (60g)
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
10 tablespoons (140g)
cut into small cubes
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
4 medium (about 3/4 cup juice)
Quantity
from 2 oranges
Quantity
3/4 cup (150g)
Quantity
4
Quantity
1/2 cup (1 stick/113g)
cut into pieces
Quantity
pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 1 1/2 cups (190g) |
| powdered sugar | 1/2 cup (60g) |
| fine sea salt (for shells) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| cold unsalted butter (for shells)cut into small cubes | 10 tablespoons (140g) |
| large egg yolks (for shells) | 2 |
| cold water (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| blood oranges | 4 medium (about 3/4 cup juice) |
| blood orange zest | from 2 oranges |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup (150g) |
| large eggs (for curd) | 4 |
| unsalted butter (for curd)cut into pieces | 1/2 cup (1 stick/113g) |
| fine sea salt (for curd) | pinch |
Whisk together the flour, powdered sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Add the cold butter cubes and work them into the flour using your fingertips or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse sand with some pea-sized pieces remaining. These butter pieces will create the tender, flaky texture you want. Add the egg yolks and mix with a fork until the dough just begins to clump together. If it seems dry, add cold water by the half teaspoon. The dough should hold together when you press it but should not feel sticky or wet.
Gather the dough into a flat disk, wrap tightly in plastic, and refrigerate for at least one hour or overnight. Cold dough is forgiving dough. It rolls without sticking and bakes without shrinking. Do not skip this rest.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the chilled dough to about 1/8 inch thickness. Cut circles slightly larger than your tartlet pans and press gently into each mold, pushing the dough into the corners without stretching it. Trim the edges flush with the rim. Prick the bottoms with a fork and freeze the lined pans for twenty minutes. This step relaxes the gluten and prevents shrinking during baking.
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Line each frozen shell with a small piece of parchment and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for fifteen minutes, then carefully remove the weights and parchment. Continue baking until the shells are golden and dry to the touch, another eight to twelve minutes. The color should remind you of shortbread, pale gold with slightly darker edges. Let cool completely in the pans.
While the shells cool, prepare your blood oranges. Roll them firmly against the counter to loosen the juice. Zest two of them before cutting, using a microplane to capture only the colored outer layer, never the bitter white pith. Juice all four oranges and strain to remove seeds and pulp. You need about three-quarters cup of that ruby juice. The color should be remarkable, somewhere between garnet and sunset.
Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a medium saucepan until smooth. Add the blood orange juice, zest, and pinch of salt. Set the pan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of your spoon. This takes eight to twelve minutes. Do not rush. Do not walk away. The curd should be thick enough that when you draw your finger across the coated spoon, the line holds.
Remove the pan from heat. Add the butter pieces a few at a time, stirring until each addition melts before adding more. The butter gives the curd its silky richness and glossy sheen. Strain the curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl to remove any bits of cooked egg and the zest. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until fully set, at least two hours.
Spoon or pipe the chilled curd into the cooled tart shells, filling them generously. The surface should be smooth and slightly domed. These are ready to serve now, or they will keep, covered, in the refrigerator overnight. Let them sit at room temperature for ten minutes before serving to let the butter in both the curd and the shell soften slightly. The curd should be bright and tangy, the shell tender and rich. Let things taste of what they are.
1 serving (about 75g)
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