
Chef Klaus
Berlin Currywurst
The Berlin Imbiss counter on a plate: fried sausage cut thick, a tomato curry sauce cooked until glossy, and enough fries or bread to chase every bit.
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Franconia's sour-poached bratwurst skips the grill: raw sausages, onion, vinegar, wine, and one quiet rule, keep the sud below the boil.
Blaue Zipfel belong to Franconia, especially around Nuremberg, Bamberg, and the old Wirtshaus tables where a sausage does not always need a grill to prove itself. Raw bratwurst goes into a sharp Sud, a poaching liquor of vinegar, white wine, onion, bay, and spice, and comes out pale blue-grey at the skin. That colour is the dish. Don't apologise for it.
Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. The north has its fish and rye, the Rhineland its sweet-sour roasts, Swabia its dumplings; Franconia has a serious sausage culture and knows when not to brown one. Some cooks make the sud sharper with more vinegar, some softer with more wine, and some add carrot or leek. I keep it clean: onion, bay, pepper, juniper, a little sugar to round the acid, and good raw bratwurst.
The rule is simple. Boil the sud first so the onion softens and the spices give themselves up, then turn the heat down before the sausages go in. If the liquid boils around raw bratwurst, the casings split and the fat runs out into the pot. Gentle poaching sets the meat, tightens the skin, and lets the vinegar do its work without turning the sausage dry. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Serve them in the liquor with the onions, mustard or horseradish, and rye bread to catch the sour broth. Weggeworfen wird nichts. The sud is not a bath to throw away; it's half the plate.
Blaue Zipfel are recorded as a Franconian Wirtshaus dish tied to the region's bratwurst towns, especially Nuremberg, whose small protected Nürnberger Rostbratwurst was first regulated by city ordinance in the early 14th century. The blue-grey colour comes from the fresh sausage casing reacting in the acidic vinegar-and-wine sud, not from smoking or dye, which is why the dish needs raw bratwurst rather than precooked sausage. The name shifts by town and table: Blaue Zipfel stresses the colour, while Saure Zipfel stresses the sour liquor.
Quantity
12
Quantity
750ml
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
3 large
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
2
Quantity
8
Quantity
6
lightly crushed
Quantity
3
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| raw Franconian bratwursts or raw Nürnberger bratwursts | 12 |
| water | 750ml |
| dry white wine | 250ml |
| white wine vinegar | 150ml |
| onionsthinly sliced | 3 large |
| carrotthinly sliced | 1 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| black peppercorns | 8 |
| juniper berrieslightly crushed | 6 |
| whole cloves | 3 |
| yellow mustard seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| freshly grated horseradish or sharp German mustard (optional) | to serve |
| rye bread or Bauernbrot | to serve |
Put the water, wine, vinegar, onions, carrot, bay, peppercorns, juniper, cloves, mustard seeds, sugar, and salt into a wide pot. Bring it to a boil, then lower it and simmer 15 minutes, because the onion needs time to soften and the spices need time to season the liquid before the sausages arrive.
Turn the heat down until the sud only trembles. Runter mit der Temperatur. Raw bratwurst is delicate; a hard boil bursts the casing, pushes out the fat, and leaves you with dry meat and a cloudy pot.
Slide the raw bratwursts into the hot sud in one layer, or as close to one layer as your pot allows. Poach gently for 15 to 18 minutes, turning once, until the sausages are firm, pale, and blue-grey at the casing. The acid sets the skin and seasons the meat from the outside in; it is not there for decoration.
Taste the sud and adjust with a pinch of salt or a small splash of vinegar. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss, because the sausages give up seasoning as they cook and you won't know the balance until the end. Serve two or three sausages per bowl with plenty of onions and a ladle of the sour liquor, with rye bread, horseradish, or mustard beside it.
1 serving (about 430g)
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