
Chef Dean
Almond Butter Cookies
Buttery, sandy-textured cookies crowned with whole blanched almonds, delivering old-fashioned elegance through honest technique and quality butter. The kind of cookie that earns its place on holiday platters.
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Fudgy chocolate cookies shot through with swirls of toasted black sesame, creating a striking marbled appearance and a flavor that bridges continents. The kind of cookie that stops conversation.
American cookie culture has always been a magnet for good ideas from elsewhere. We took Dutch cocoa and made brownies. We borrowed French butter techniques and created the chocolate chip cookie. Now black sesame, that magnificently nutty paste from Asian kitchens, finds its way into our cookie jars. This is how traditions grow.
Black sesame paste brings something chocolate alone cannot provide: a deep, roasted earthiness that reads almost savory against the sweet. The color is dramatic, gray-black swirls through dark chocolate dough like marble. Your guests will ask what they're eating. They'll reach for seconds before you answer.
I first encountered this combination at a bakery in Portland run by a Japanese-American pastry chef who understood that fusion isn't about novelty. It's about finding ingredients that genuinely belong together. Black sesame and chocolate share volatile compounds. They're natural partners separated only by geography. This cookie reunites them.
The technique matters here. You'll swirl the sesame paste through the dough rather than mixing it in completely. This creates pockets of intense sesame flavor and visual contrast. Don't overwork it. Let the two elements stay distinct enough to surprise.
Quantity
2 cups (250g)
Quantity
3/4 cup (65g)
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup (2 sticks/225g)
Quantity
1 cup (200g)
Quantity
1/2 cup (100g)
packed
Quantity
2
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 cup (130g)
Quantity
6 oz (170g)
roughly chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for topping
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 2 cups (250g) |
| Dutch-process cocoa powder | 3/4 cup (65g) |
| baking soda | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| unsalted butter, at room temperature | 1 cup (2 sticks/225g) |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup (200g) |
| dark brown sugarpacked | 1/2 cup (100g) |
| large eggs, at room temperature | 2 |
| vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons |
| black sesame paste (kuro neri goma) | 1/2 cup (130g) |
| bittersweet chocolateroughly chopped | 6 oz (170g) |
| black sesame seedsfor topping | 2 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt (optional) | for finishing |
Whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Sift if your cocoa is lumpy. Dutch-process cocoa gives these cookies their ink-dark color and mellow chocolate flavor. Don't substitute natural cocoa here; the chemistry and color both depend on the Dutch process.
Beat the butter in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until smooth and pale, about 2 minutes. Add both sugars and beat until light and fluffy, another 3 minutes. Scrape down the bowl. The mixture should look almost white and hold soft peaks. This aeration creates the cookie's tender interior.
Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. The batter may look curdled briefly. That's fine. Add the vanilla and beat until smooth. Scrape down the bowl again.
Add the dry ingredients all at once. Mix on low speed just until the flour disappears, no more than 30 seconds. Overmixing develops gluten and produces tough cookies. Stop while you can still see a few flour streaks. Fold in the chopped chocolate by hand with a rubber spatula.
Stir the black sesame paste to reincorporate any separated oil. Drop spoonfuls of the paste across the surface of the dough. Using the spatula, fold the dough over itself three or four times, turning the bowl as you go. You want dramatic swirls, not uniform color. The marbling should be visible, with distinct ribbons of gray-black sesame running through the chocolate dough. Resist the urge to keep mixing.
Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap pressed directly against the dough surface. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 3 days. The dough needs to firm up or your cookies will spread into flat discs. Cold dough also develops better flavor as the flour hydrates and the sugars dissolve.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Scoop rounded tablespoons of dough (about 40g each) and roll into balls. Arrange 2 inches apart on the prepared sheets. Press a few black sesame seeds onto the top of each ball. They'll toast as the cookies bake, adding crunch and visual drama. Return the sheets to the refrigerator for 15 minutes while your oven preheats.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of your oven. Heat to 350°F (175°C). Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the sheets front to back and top to bottom halfway through. The cookies are done when the edges are set but the centers still look slightly underdone and glossy. They'll firm up as they cool. Pull them at 10 minutes for fudgier cookies, 12 for a crisper edge.
The moment the cookies come out of the oven, sprinkle each with a few flakes of sea salt. The salt crystals will adhere to the warm surface and provide little bursts of salinity against the sweet. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack. They're fragile when hot.
1 serving (about 41g)
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