Bitoque

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy skillet (cast iron is ideal)
• •Medium pot for rice
• •Deep pot or fryer for potatoes
• •Meat mallet or rolling pin

Instructions

1. 1

   Start the rice

   In a medium pot, heat the tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat. Add the rice and stir for a minute until the grains are coated and slightly toasted. Add the water and salt, bring to a boil, then reduce to lowest heat and cover. Cook for 18 minutes without lifting the lid. Remove from heat and let it rest, still covered, while you prepare everything else.

2. 2

   Fry the potatoes

   Heat vegetable oil to 180°C (350°F) in a deep pot or fryer. Fry the potatoes in batches until golden and crisp, about 5 minutes per batch. Drain on paper and season with salt. Keep warm in a low oven while you cook the steaks.

3. 3

   Season the steaks

   Pat the steaks completely dry with paper towels. Season generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Let them sit at room temperature while the pan heats. Cold meat in a hot pan is how you get grey, sad steaks.

   The steaks should be thin, about 1cm. If your butcher gives you thick cuts, put them between plastic wrap and pound them with a rolling pin or the bottom of a heavy pan.
4. 4

   Sear the steaks

   Heat a large heavy skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add the steaks. Don't crowd them. Work in batches if needed. Sear for 2 minutes on the first side without moving them. You want a deep brown crust. Flip and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more for medium. Transfer to a warm plate and cover loosely with foil.

   Resist the urge to move the meat. Let it sit and develop that crust. The sound of sizzling should be aggressive, not gentle.
5. 5

   Make the molho

   Reduce heat to medium. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and the butter to the same pan. When the butter foams, add the minced garlic and bay leaf. Stir for 30 seconds until fragrant. Don't let the garlic brown. Pour in the wine or beer. It will sizzle and steam. Scrape up all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Let it reduce by half, about 2 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. This simple sauce is the soul of a good bitoque.

6. 6

   Fry the eggs

   In a separate skillet, heat a generous glug of olive oil over medium-high heat. Crack in the eggs one at a time. The edges should sizzle immediately. Fry until the whites are set and lacy-crisp at the edges, but the yolks are still runny, about 2 minutes. Baste the tops with the hot oil if you like. Season with a pinch of salt.

7. 7

   Plate and serve

   On each plate, place a mound of rice on one side and a pile of fries on the other. Set the steak in the center. Place the fried egg on top of the steak, a cavalo, riding like a horse. Spoon the warm garlic sauce over and around the steak. Serve immediately. This is lunch. This is Portugal.

Chef Tips

• •The steak must be thin. Thick steaks don't work here. You want something that cooks in minutes and picks up a good crust. Ask your butcher for rump or sirloin, sliced thin, or pound it yourself at home.
• •Some places use beer in the sauce instead of wine. Sagres or Super Bock work well. The sauce should be quick and simple: garlic, fat, liquid, done. Don't complicate what should be humble.
• •The egg yolk is the sauce for the steak. When you cut into the meat and the yolk runs over it, mixing with the garlic sauce, that's the moment. Make sure those yolks are runny.
• •At every tasca I've visited for my cookbook research, the cooks make the rice the same way: toasted first in a little oil, then cooked undisturbed. The result is fluffy, separate grains that soak up the sauce beautifully.

Advance Preparation

• •Potatoes can be cut and held in cold water for up to 4 hours. Dry thoroughly before frying.
• •Steaks can be pounded and seasoned up to 2 hours ahead, kept covered in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before cooking.
• •This dish must be served immediately. Bitoque waits for no one.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 600g)