
Chef Joost
Haringsla (Dutch New Herring Salad)
The harbor herring salad that catches June at its fattest: fresh Hollandse Nieuwe, beetroot, apple, potato, egg, and pickle, laid on lettuce like the North Sea has agreed to come indoors.
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Cold beetroot, tart apple, walnuts, and a crumble of salty cheese: the Dutch buffet dish that proves winter storage food can arrive wearing its brightest coat.
In my grandmother's second notebook, beetroot appears in the months when the garden had gone quiet. Not glamorous. Better than glamorous: dependable. A row of bietjes, little beets, could sit in sand or cellar and wait out weather, bad roads, late guests, and every other thing a Dutch household was expected to survive without drama.
But let me tell you a secret. Bietensalade is not the sad purple spoonful found beside a cafeteria croquette. Done properly, it is one of the great cold-table dishes: earthy beetroot, a sharp apple, a little onion, walnuts for the bite under your teeth, and enough vinegar and mustard to keep the sweetness honest. The name doesn't pretend. Bietensalade means beet salad, and sometimes a plain name is a promise kept.
The method is the lesson. Cook the beets whole so they don't bleed themselves dull in the water, peel them only once tender, and dress them while still just warm enough to drink in the vinegar. Then chill. Cold does the quiet work here, pulling the apple, mustard, and beetroot into one deep ruby bowl. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: make it ahead, carry it to the picnic, and crumble the cheese over it at the last moment so the salad stays bright and the cheese stays itself.
Beetroot has long belonged to the Dutch winter larder because it grows well in the country's heavy clay soils and stores reliably after the autumn harvest. Cold beet salads became fixtures of the Dutch koud buffet, the cold spread used for family celebrations, picnics, and holiday tables where dishes needed to wait without suffering. The modern addition of walnuts and goat cheese reflects a later Dutch home-cooking habit, but the backbone remains older: stored beetroot sharpened with acid, made useful and bright when fresh garden abundance was gone.
Quantity
750g
scrubbed
Quantity
1
diced
Quantity
1 small
finely diced
Quantity
75g
toasted and roughly chopped
Quantity
100g
crumbled
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small raw beetrootscrubbed | 750g |
| tart applediced | 1 |
| red onionfinely diced | 1 small |
| walnutstoasted and roughly chopped | 75g |
| soft goat cheese or salty young sheep cheesecrumbled | 100g |
| apple cider vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| wholegrain mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| honey | 1 teaspoon |
| walnut oil or mild rapeseed oil | 3 tablespoons |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 1 tablespoon |
| salt and black pepper | to taste |
Put the whole scrubbed beetroot in a pan, cover with cold water, and bring to a gentle boil. Cook for 35 to 45 minutes, depending on size, until a small knife slips in without a fight. Keep them whole while cooking; cut beets bleed their sweetness into the pan, and we are making salad, not dye.
Drain the beets and let them cool until you can handle them. Rub off the skins with your fingers or a small knife, then dice the flesh into small cubes. They should be tender but not collapsing, with enough shape to sit proudly on the spoon.
Whisk the vinegar, mustard, honey, oil, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Add the diced beetroot while it is still faintly warm and turn it through the dressing. This is when the beet drinks best; wait until it is refrigerator-cold and the dressing sits on the surface like a polite visitor.
Fold in the diced apple, red onion, and toasted walnuts. Taste now. Beetroot is sweet, apple is sharp, onion is brisk, and the dressing must keep peace among them. Add a little more vinegar if the salad tastes too round.
Cover and chill for at least 1 hour, longer if you have it. Just before serving, fold through the parsley and scatter the crumbled cheese over the top. The cheese goes on last for obvious reasons: beetroot stains everything it loves.
1 serving (about 185g)
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