
Chef Joost
Amandelbroodje (Dutch Almond Pastry Roll)
The December bakery counter made small: cold leafed pastry wrapped around lemon-scented amandelspijs, brushed gold, and scattered with almonds so one person gets the whole holiday in both hands.
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A golden log of bladerdeeg wrapped around amandelspijs, banketstaaf is the Sinterklaas pastry that proves Dutch holiday baking has always known how to hide luxury in plain sight.
The first banketstaaf of December always looked too modest for what it was. A brown-gold bar on a plate, a little egg shine, a few almond flakes if the baker was feeling grand, and inside it the secret: amandelspijs, almond paste, dense and sweet as a promise kept until the knife goes in.
The name already tells you its good manners. Banket is festive pastry, the baker's work rather than daily bread, and staaf means a rod or bar. Nothing theatrical. But let me tell you a secret: this plain little log is holiday abundance in Dutch disguise. Almonds from warmer trade routes, sugar once dear enough to show status, butter folded into bladerdeeg, puff pastry, all gathered into something you can slice and pass with coffee after Sinterklaas poems have been read.
The important thing is the filling. Not marzipan, which is finer and often meant for shaping, but amandelspijs, a rougher paste of ground almonds, sugar, egg, and lemon zest that should taste of almonds first and sweetness second. Let it rest if you can. The sugar draws moisture through the almonds, the lemon loses its sharp elbows, and the paste becomes one piece of memory instead of a mixture.
Then hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Buy good all-butter puff pastry if you're not making your own, seal the seam underneath, brush the top with egg, and bake until the pastry is deeply golden. A banketstaaf asks for care, not performance. Slice it while the room still smells faintly of butter and almonds, and put the plate in the middle of the table where it belongs.
Dutch banket belongs to the craft of the banketbakker, the confectioner's baker, whose early modern work combined pastry, sugar, spices, and imported nuts for feast days rather than daily eating. Almond paste entered Dutch festive baking through Mediterranean trade in almonds and the growing seventeenth-century availability of sugar, then became especially attached to Sinterklaas and Christmas in forms such as banketletter, shaped initials, and banketstaaf, the simpler filled log. The distinction between amandelspijs and marzipan matters in Dutch baking: spijs is a moist baking filling, usually loosened with egg and citrus, while marzipan is finer and used more often for sweets and decoration.
Quantity
200g
Quantity
200g
Quantity
1
finely zested
Quantity
1
beaten and divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 sheet, about 270g
thawed if frozen
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for dusting
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
warmed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| blanched almonds | 200g |
| granulated sugar | 200g |
| lemonfinely zested | 1 |
| large eggbeaten and divided | 1 |
| almond extract (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| all-butter puff pastrythawed if frozen | 1 sheet, about 270g |
| flourfor dusting | 1 tablespoon |
| sliced almonds (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| apricot jam (optional)warmed | 1 tablespoon |
Grind the almonds and sugar together in a food processor until the mixture is fine but not oily. Add the lemon zest, half the beaten egg, and the almond extract if using, then pulse until it comes together as a thick paste. It should hold when pressed, but still look faintly grainy; that little texture is the difference between proper amandelspijs and sweet putty.
Turn the almond paste onto a board and roll it into a log about 32 centimetres long. If it sticks, dust your hands with a little flour rather than adding more sugar. The filling should be firm enough to lift in one piece and soft enough to press without cracking.
Heat the oven to 200C. Roll the puff pastry lightly on a floured surface into a rectangle wide enough to wrap around the almond log with a small overlap. Lay the spijs along one long side, brush the far edge with a little beaten egg, and roll the pastry around the filling. Press the seam closed and place the log seam-side down on a lined baking tray. The seam underneath is not vanity; it keeps the pastry from opening like a badly kept secret.
Brush the top and sides with the remaining beaten egg. Make three or four shallow diagonal cuts across the top with a sharp knife, cutting only the surface so the pastry can expand neatly. Scatter with sliced almonds if you like. Keep your cuts light; if you reach the filling, the spijs will try to escape, and it usually succeeds.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the pastry is puffed, deeply golden, and crisp at the edges, with a little almond filling just visible at the ends. If the top browns too quickly, lower the oven to 180C for the last few minutes. The underside should be baked through, not pale and soft; lift one end gently with a spatula and check before you call it done.
If you want the bakery shine, brush the hot pastry lightly with warmed apricot jam. Let the banketstaaf rest for at least 20 minutes before slicing, because the almond paste sets as it cools and gives you clean pieces. Serve in thick slices with coffee, tea, or a small glass of something stronger after the poems are read.
1 serving (about 70g)
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