
Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.
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The name means fried noodles, but the Dutch plate carries more than that: Chinese-Indonesian roots, colonial return, and the quiet weeknight genius of one hot wok.
The name already tells you where to begin, if you listen to it properly. Bami comes by way of Indonesian from Hokkien bakmi, meat noodles, the Chinese noodle tradition made at home in the archipelago. Goreng means fried. Simple enough. But let me tell you a secret: in the Netherlands, bami goreng is never only noodles. It is memory carried home from the colony, adapted in boarding houses, military kitchens, Indo-Dutch family tables, and later the snackbar, where history sometimes wears a paper tray and says very little about itself.
This is the Indo-Dutch table at its most ordinary, which is where I trust it most. Not the grand rijsttafel with its parade of dishes, but the pan that appears on a Wednesday evening beside nasi, sambal, pickles, and a fried egg if the household is feeling generous. History and cookery, they cannot be separated, yet the dish asks for no solemnity. It asks for heat, speed, and restraint.
The why is plain before you start. Cook the noodles first and cool them, because hot wet noodles collapse into a paste. Cut the meat and vegetables small, because stir-frying gives no time for second thoughts. Use ketjap manis, sweet Indonesian soy sauce, for gloss and sweetness, and sambal oelek for the clean chilli bite. Hou het altijd simpel. Once the pan is hot, the dish is finished almost before you can explain it, which is exactly why everything must be ready before the oil goes in.
Bami goreng entered Dutch home cooking through the colonial relationship between the Netherlands and the Dutch East Indies, especially after Indonesian independence in 1949, when Indo-European families, soldiers, and repatriates brought everyday Indonesian dishes into Dutch kitchens. The word bami traces to Hokkien bakmi, meat noodles, while goreng is Indonesian and Malay for fried, showing the Chinese-Indonesian layer already present before the dish became familiar in the Netherlands. By the late twentieth century it had become standard Dutch weeknight food, sold in supermarkets, toko's, snackbars, and served as a noodle partner to nasi goreng in the Indo-Dutch rijsttafel.
Quantity
300g
Quantity
200g
thinly sliced
Quantity
200g
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
thinly sliced
Quantity
3
minced
Quantity
2 teaspoons
plus more to serve
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
200g
finely shredded
Quantity
1
rinsed and thinly sliced
Quantity
1
cut into thin matchsticks
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2
fried for serving
Quantity
2
thinly sliced
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried egg noodles or mie noodles | 300g |
| pork shoulder or pork bellythinly sliced | 200g |
| chicken thighthinly sliced | 200g |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| onionthinly sliced | 1 large |
| garlic clovesminced | 3 |
| sambal oelekplus more to serve | 2 teaspoons |
| ground coriander | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/2 teaspoon |
| white cabbagefinely shredded | 200g |
| leekrinsed and thinly sliced | 1 |
| carrotcut into thin matchsticks | 1 |
| ketjap manis | 3 tablespoons |
| light soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| rice vinegar or lemon juice | 1 teaspoon |
| eggs (optional)fried for serving | 2 |
| spring onionsthinly sliced | 2 |
| crisp fried onions (optional) | to serve |
Boil the noodles until just tender, usually one minute less than the packet says, then drain and rinse briefly under cold water. Shake them very dry and spread them on a tray. A wet noodle is the enemy here; it steams itself into sadness before the pan can do its work.
Set a wok or your widest frying pan over high heat. Have every ingredient cut and within reach before you begin. Bami goreng is not difficult, but it is quick, and a cook searching for the soy sauce while the garlic burns is a small domestic tragedy.
Add one tablespoon of oil, then the pork and chicken in a single layer. Fry until the edges brown and the meat is cooked through, about four to five minutes, then lift it to a plate. Let the meat take colour; pale meat brings nothing to the noodles except apology.
Add the remaining oil to the pan, then the onion. Fry for two minutes until glossy at the edges, then add the garlic, sambal oelek, coriander, and cumin. Stir for thirty seconds, just until the kitchen smells awake. Spices need oil to speak, but garlic needs mercy.
Add the cabbage, leek, and carrot and toss hard for three to four minutes. You want the vegetables softened but still alive under the teeth. The cabbage should bend, not surrender, and the leek should sweeten without turning limp.
Return the meat to the pan, add the noodles, ketjap manis, light soy sauce, and vinegar or lemon juice. Toss and fry for three minutes, lifting from the bottom so the sauce coats every strand and the noodles pick up little browned spots. Taste now, then add more sambal or soy if the pan asks for it.
Pile the bami goreng into a wide bowl or onto plates, scatter with spring onion and crisp fried onions, and put sambal on the table. A fried egg on top is not required, but it is often the difference between supper and a household going quiet for a minute.
1 serving (about 430g)
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Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.

Chef Joost
The old Dutch spelling says ajam, the city says Batavia, and the pot says exactly what the rijsttafel always was: memory, trade, and dinner in one dish.

Chef Joost
The name means simply fried chicken, but the Dutch spelling carries a whole Indies kitchen: turmeric, coriander, garlic, and a golden crust that remembers the boemboe.

Chef Joost
Ajam is the old Dutch spelling of ayam, chicken, and opor is the pale coconut braise that lets a rijsttafel breathe between its darker, hotter dishes.