
Chef Klaus
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Baden's Vesper spread is nothing more than quark, cream, onion, and chives, but the whole dish depends on controlling the whey so the bowl stays spoonable beside hot potatoes.
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The Baden flatbread that keeps its bread body: sour cream, onion, and Speck on a yeast dough baked hard and hot until the edges blister.
Badische Dinnele belongs to the southwest, especially Baden and the Kaiserstuhl wine country, where it sits well on a weeknight table and even better outside with a glass of local white wine. It is the thicker cousin of Flammkuchen, not a copy of it. Across the Rhine in Alsace and up through the Palatinate they argue for a thin, crackling Flammkuchen; in Baden and Swabia the Dinnele, or Dinnete, keeps a small bread chew and a stronger rim. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders, and here the argument happens within sight of the vineyards.
The technique that decides it is heat. The dough is yeast dough, but it must be rolled thin enough to bake through before the sour cream wets it, and the oven must be very hot so the base sets fast while the onions soften and the Speck gives up its fat. Bake it gently and you get pale bread under dairy. Bake it hard and the edge blisters, the bottom firms, and the topping stays creamy instead of soaking down.
Use Schmand or a thick sour cream, not a loose sauce from a tub that runs like milk. Nicht aus dem Glas. Slice the onions thin, because thick onion stays raw while the dough is already done, and cut the Speck small so its fat seasons the cream instead of sitting in rubbery strips. That is the whole dish: flour, dairy, onion, cured pork, and enough heat. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Dinnele, also called Dinnete in Swabian areas, comes from the Alemannic bread-oven belt of Baden, Württemberg, and nearby Alsace, where small flatbreads were baked around the main bread firing to use the hot oven and test its heat. The related Flammkuchen takes its name from the flames of the wood oven, and the regional split still shows at the table: Alsace and the Palatinate favour a very thin tart, while Baden and Swabia keep a thicker yeast-dough fladen. On the Kaiserstuhl, the dish became tied to wine festivals and new wine, a practical oven bread turned into vineyard food.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
7g instant / 21g fresh
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
250g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
1
Quantity
a pinch
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
2 medium
very thinly sliced
Quantity
150g
cut into small lardons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bread flour or strong plain flour | 500g |
| instant yeast or fresh yeast | 7g instant / 21g fresh |
| lukewarm water | 300ml |
| neutral oil or melted lard | 2 tablespoons |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon |
| Schmand, crème fraîche, or thick sour cream | 250g |
| quark or full-fat Greek yogurt | 100g |
| egg yolk | 1 |
| freshly grated nutmeg | a pinch |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| onionsvery thinly sliced | 2 medium |
| smoked Speck or streaky baconcut into small lardons | 150g |
| chives (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
Mix the flour, yeast, lukewarm water, oil or lard, and salt into a soft dough, then knead for 8 to 10 minutes until smooth. The water should feel warm, not hot, because heat that feels sharp to your finger weakens the yeast before it can lift the dough.
Cover the dough and leave it until doubled, about 60 to 75 minutes. Das braucht seine Zeit. The dough must ferment enough to give a light bread chew, but not so long that it collapses and bakes flat and sour.
Put a baking stone or heavy tray in the oven and heat it to 250C, or as hot as your oven honestly goes, for at least 30 minutes. The stone stores heat, so the base sets before the sour cream can soak into the dough.
Stir the Schmand, quark, egg yolk, nutmeg, and plenty of black pepper together until thick and spoonable. Add only a small pinch of salt, if any, because the Speck will season the topping as its fat renders.
Divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll each one into a thin oval, about 3mm in the centre with a slightly thicker edge. Keep the middle thin because the topping sits there; leave a rim because Baden Dinnele is not the paper-thin Alsatian tart.
Spread a thin layer of the cream over each oval, stopping short of the rim, then scatter with onion and Speck. Do not bury the dough. Too much topping turns a flatbread into a wet casserole, and nobody asked for that.
Slide each Dinnele onto the hot stone or tray and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the rim is blistered and golden, the underside is firm, and the Speck has glossy edges. Runter mit der Temperatur is good for a roast, not here; this one wants fierce heat and no dithering.
Scatter with chives if you like, cut into strips, and serve at once while the base still has bite. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss: taste one piece before adding more salt, because smoked pork gets louder after the bake.
1 serving (about 330g)
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