
Chef Margarida
Açorda de Camarão
The peasant bread soup of Alentejo dressed for company, sweet pink prawns swimming in a broth of garlic, coentros, and golden azeite. Humble origins, elegant result. This is who we are.
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Porto's greatest contribution to the bacalhau canon. Layers of tender salt cod, golden potatoes, and sweet onions, crowned with eggs and olives. A merchant's recipe that became a national treasure.
This dish belongs to Porto. To the granite city on the Douro where merchants once made fortunes trading bacalhau from Newfoundland. José Luís Gomes de Sá was one of them, and somewhere in the 1800s, he created this layered casserole that would outlive his business, his name, his century.
I learned to make Gomes de Sá from a grandmother in Matosinhos, just outside Porto. Her name was Dona Fernanda, and she'd been making this dish every week for sixty years. She watched me layer the potatoes and shook her head. 'Mais grosso,' she said. Thicker. The potatoes need to hold their shape. She watched me flake the cod and nodded slowly. 'Assim mesmo.' Just like that. The pieces should be generous, not shredded.
This is comfort food in its purest form. Nothing complicated. Nothing fussy. Just humble ingredients arranged with intention and bathed in good azeite until they become something greater than their parts. The eggs and olives go on at the end, a crown of black and white that makes the dish beautiful without trying.
At Mesa da Avó, I serve this family-style, the baking dish set right on the table. People lean in with bread to catch the oil pooling at the edges. That's the moment I love most: when strangers become family over a dish from Porto.
José Luís Gomes de Sá was a bacalhau merchant in 19th-century Porto who reportedly created this dish at the Restaurante Lisbonense. The recipe combines the city's two obsessions: salt cod and olive oil. Unlike the scrambled Bacalhau à Brás of Lisbon, this Porto classic uses gentle layering and oven heat, reflecting the northern Portuguese preference for heartier, baked preparations.
Quantity
600g
soaked 2 days, water changed 3 times
Quantity
1 kg
unpeeled
Quantity
2 large
halved and sliced into half-moons
Quantity
4 cloves
sliced thin
Quantity
1 cup, divided
Quantity
4
peeled and quartered
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
for garnish
roughly chopped
Quantity
2
Quantity
freshly ground, to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried salt cod (bacalhau)soaked 2 days, water changed 3 times | 600g |
| waxy potatoesunpeeled | 1 kg |
| onionshalved and sliced into half-moons | 2 large |
| garlicsliced thin | 4 cloves |
| extra virgin olive oil (azeite) | 1 cup, divided |
| hard-boiled eggspeeled and quartered | 4 |
| black olives | 1/2 cup |
| flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | for garnish |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| black pepper | freshly ground, to taste |
Place the unpeeled potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold salted water, and bring to a boil. Cook until just tender when pierced with a knife, about 25 minutes depending on size. Drain and let cool just enough to handle. Peel while still warm and slice into rounds about 1 cm thick. Warm potatoes absorb more flavor. This matters.
While the potatoes cook, drain the soaked cod and place it in a wide pan. Cover with fresh cold water and add the bay leaves. Bring slowly to just below a simmer. You want to see tiny bubbles at the edges, nothing more. The moment the water threatens to boil, remove from heat. Let the cod rest in the water for 10 minutes. This is how you get tender bacalhau, not the tough, stringy fish that happens when people rush.
Remove the cod from the water and let it cool slightly. Using your hands, flake it into large pieces, removing all skin and bones as you go. Work gently. You want substantial flakes, not shredded fish. Unlike Bacalhau à Brás where the cod is shredded thin, Gomes de Sá calls for generous chunks that hold their shape in the oven.
In a large skillet, heat half the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the sliced onions and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until completely soft and golden, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add the garlic in the last two minutes. This is the foundation. Não tenhas pressa. The onion should practically melt before you stop.
Preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F). Drizzle a baking dish with olive oil. Arrange half the potato slices in an overlapping layer. Top with half the flaked cod, then half the onion mixture. Repeat: potatoes, cod, onions. The layering matters. Each bite should have all three elements together. Drizzle the remaining olive oil generously over the top.
Bake uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes, until the top layer of onions turns golden at the edges and the potatoes begin to crisp where they peek through. The kitchen should smell impossibly good. Rich with olive oil, sweet with onion, salty from the sea.
Remove from the oven and arrange the quartered eggs and black olives over the top. Scatter generously with parsley. Finish with one more drizzle of your best azeite. Serve directly from the baking dish with good bread on the side to soak up every drop of oil from the bottom of the dish. That oil, flavored with cod and onion, is liquid gold. Don't waste it.
1 serving (about 420g)
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