
Chef Lupita
Calabaza Guisada Veracruzana
Veracruz's tropical lowland calabaza guisada, squash stewed in manteca de cerdo with jitomate, onion, garlic, and epazote, served beside black beans and warm corn tortillas.
A cooking platform built around craft, culture, and the stories behind what we eat.

Created by
Veracruz's Gulf-side white rice, toasted with garlic and onion, cooked until each grain stands apart, then crowned with ripe plátano macho fried in lard.
Veracruz, especially the Sotavento and the port kitchen, owns this rice with plátano macho. It lives beside pescado a la veracruzana, black beans, yuca, and the humid Gulf table where rice is not decoration. It is the plate's order.
The rice is white, not red, and it is toasted with garlic and onion until each grain is sealed before the broth goes in. The plantain is the other half of the dish. Ripe plátano macho, yellow with black spots, fried in manteca de cerdo until the edges caramelize. La manteca es el sabor. Use butter and you will taste butter. Use lard and you will taste Veracruz.
In Los Tuxtlas and down through the Sotavento, I watched women serve this with frijoles negros from clay pots and a wet wooden table under the weight of the Gulf air. The African line is right there in the plantain. The Spanish hand is in the rice technique. The Indigenous base is in the way the meal is built around what the lowland market gives you. Esto no es comida de un solo México.
This is weeknight food, yes, but do not confuse quick with careless. Rinse the rice. Toast it properly. Rest it covered. Fry the plantain last so it reaches the table glossy and golden. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
Rice arrived in New Spain through Spanish colonial trade, and Veracruz became one of the main ports where Mediterranean ingredients and techniques entered Mexican kitchens. Plantain took root along the Gulf and Caribbean-facing lowlands through African and Afro-Caribbean culinary influence, especially in Veracruz's Sotavento and Los Tuxtlas, where plátano macho appears fried, stuffed, mashed, and served beside beans and rice. The pairing of pale rice with sweet fried plantain marks the jarocho table more clearly than any generic idea of Mexican food based on tortillas and chile heat.
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
2 cups
for rinsing and soaking
Quantity
2 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for the rice
Quantity
1/4 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
2
finely minced
Quantity
2 1/4 cups
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1
left whole and slit once lengthwise
Quantity
1 small sprig
Quantity
2
yellow with black spots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into 1/2-inch slices
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| long-grain white rice | 1 1/2 cups |
| warm waterfor rinsing and soaking | 2 cups |
| manteca de cerdodivided | 2 tablespoons |
| neutral oilfor the rice | 2 tablespoons |
| white onionfinely chopped | 1/4 medium |
| garlic clovesfinely minced | 2 |
| hot chicken broth or water | 2 1/4 cups |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| small carrotfinely diced | 1 |
| fresh peas or thawed frozen peas | 1/2 cup |
| fresh chile jalapeñoleft whole and slit once lengthwise | 1 |
| flat-leaf parsley | 1 small sprig |
| ripe plátanos machosyellow with black spots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into 1/2-inch slices | 2 |
| salsa macha veracruzana (optional) | for serving |
| frijoles negros refritos (optional) | for serving |
Place the rice in a bowl and cover with warm water. Swirl it with your hand until the water turns cloudy, then drain. Repeat once more. Cover again with warm water and let the rice soak for 10 minutes. Drain very well. This is what keeps the grains separate instead of turning into paste.
Heat the neutral oil and 1 tablespoon of the manteca in a 10-inch cazuela or heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the drained rice and stir patiently for 6 to 8 minutes, until the grains turn from chalky white to slightly pearled and smell nutty. Do not brown it hard. Veracruz white rice should stay pale.
Stir in the onion and cook for 2 minutes, just until it softens. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Garlic burns fast, and burned garlic takes over the whole pot. No me vengas con atajos. Watch the pan.
Pour in the hot broth, then add the salt, carrot, peas, whole slit chile jalapeño, and parsley. Stir once, scrape the rice level, and bring it to a steady simmer. Cover, lower the heat to the smallest flame, and cook for 15 minutes. Do not lift the lid every three minutes to ask the rice how it feels.
Turn off the heat and let the pot sit, still covered, for 10 minutes. The rice finishes in its own trapped heat. Remove the parsley and chile jalapeño, then fluff gently with a fork. Each grain should stand apart, tender but not wet.
While the rice rests, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon manteca in a skillet over medium heat. Add the plátano macho slices in one layer and fry for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden with caramelized brown edges. The plantain should be ripe enough to smell sweet before it hits the pan. Green plantain is for another dish.
Spoon the rice into a warm clay cazuela or onto a wide Jalapa green ceramic platter. Crown it with the fried plátano macho. Serve with frijoles negros refritos if you want the full Veracruz table. Black beans rule here, not pinto. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
1 serving (about 220g)
Culinary guides, cultural storytelling, and the editorial depth that makes cooking meaningful.
Discover Culinary Explorer
Chef Lupita
Veracruz's tropical lowland calabaza guisada, squash stewed in manteca de cerdo with jitomate, onion, garlic, and epazote, served beside black beans and warm corn tortillas.

Chef Lupita
Veracruz's Totonacapan dry-season guiso of cleaned flor de izote, tomato, chile jalapeño, epazote, and pork lard, bittersweet enough to remind you this plant came from the monte before the market.

Chef Lupita
Veracruz's black bean pot from the Gulf lowlands, simmered with epazote, finished in manteca with jitomate and chile chipotle meco, and served thick enough to hold a spoon.

Chef Lupita
Northern Veracruz palm hearts simmered in a red salsa of jitomate, chile serrano, garlic, and onion, the kind of Teenek mountain-side guiso that belongs beside black beans and corn tortillas.