
Chef Isabel
Arròs a la Cassola
Catalonia's casserole rice is cooked in a cassola, not a paella pan: rabbit, chicken, and pork rib over a dark sofregit, finished juicy with a small picada.
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Arroz a la Zamorana is Castilla y Leon's inland pork rice, red with pimenton and built from the matanza larder. It should finish meloso, glossy and loose, never dry like a paella.
Arroz a la Zamorana belongs to Zamora, in Castilla y Leon, and it tastes of the interior: pork rib, panceta, chorizo, sweet pimenton, and rice cooked in the broth of the meat. This is not a coastal arroz and it is not a paella wearing a different coat. It is spoon food, cocina de cuchara, with rice at the centre and the pig doing the seasoning.
The step that decides it is the pimenton. Add it off the heat, let it bloom in the oil for a few seconds, then get the liquid in before it scorches. Burnt pimenton turns bitter and takes the whole pot with it. Treated properly, it gives the rice its brick-red colour and that warm, smoky depth Zamora wants from the dish.
If you are far from Zamora, no hace falta haber pisado Espana. Use good Spanish-style cooking chorizo, pork ribs, and unsmoked panceta or thick bacon if that is what you can find. Pig's ear is traditional in many houses and gives wonderful gelatine, but if your butcher has none, use a small pork hock and know the broth will be softer, less springy. Keep the rice loose and glossy, meloso, not dry. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Arroz a la Zamorana comes from Zamora's matanza cooking, the household pig slaughter that filled the winter larder with ribs, panceta, chorizo, ears, trotters, and bones for broth. Rice was not a crop of the Castilian plateau in the way wheat and pulses were, but it entered the inland kitchen as a filling grain that could carry the flavour of preserved pork. The dish keeps the logic of the region: nothing showy, every cut used, and pimenton giving colour and warmth to a pot made for a full table.
Quantity
450g
Quantity
500g
cut into small pieces
Quantity
250g
cut into 2cm pieces
Quantity
200g
sliced thickly
Quantity
250g pig's ear or 350g pork hock
Quantity
1.6 litres
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
150g
grated
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| short-grain Spanish rice, such as bomba or Calasparra | 450g |
| pork ribscut into small pieces | 500g |
| unsmoked panceta or thick-cut baconcut into 2cm pieces | 250g |
| Spanish cooking chorizosliced thickly | 200g |
| pig's ear, cleaned, or pork hock | 250g pig's ear or 350g pork hock |
| water | 1.6 litres |
| olive oil | 60ml |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| red pepperfinely chopped | 1 |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| ripe tomatograted | 150g |
| sweet pimenton de la Vera | 2 teaspoons |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| dried oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
Put the pig's ear or pork hock in a pot with 1.6 litres water, the bay leaf, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring it up gently, skim the surface, then simmer until the meat is tender and the broth has body, about 1 hour for ear or 1 hour 20 minutes for hock. Lift out the meat, chop it small, and keep the broth hot. You need about 1.2 litres for the rice.
Set a wide cazuela or heavy pan over medium heat with the olive oil. Brown the pork ribs well on all sides, then add the panceta and cook until the edges take colour and the fat begins to run. Add the chorizo for the last 2 minutes only, just enough to stain the oil red without hardening it.
Lower the heat and add the onion and red pepper to the same pan. Cook slowly for 15 to 18 minutes, scraping the browned pork bits from the bottom, until the onion is dark gold and sweet and the pepper has softened. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then stir in the grated tomato and cook until the liquid has nearly disappeared. This slow base is where the rice gets depth.
Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the sweet pimenton and oregano for a few seconds, just until the oil turns deep red and smells warm. Do not let the pimenton fry hard or it will turn bitter. Pour in 1.2 litres of the hot pork broth right away, then return the pan to the heat.
Add the chopped ear or hock, the browned pork, and the rice. Stir once to spread everything evenly, taste the broth for salt, then simmer over medium heat for 16 to 18 minutes. Keep it bubbling steadily and move the pan only enough to stop sticking. The rice should be tender with a little bite and still loose in its glossy broth, meloso, not dry.
Take the cazuela off the heat when the rice is just done and there is still a little broth around it. Rest 5 minutes. It will thicken as it sits, so do not wait too long to serve. Spoon it into shallow bowls with ribs, panceta, chorizo, and the gelatinous pork in every serving. Pruébalo, y ya veremos. The pot usually answers for itself.
1 serving (about 560g)
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