
Chef Isabel
Arròs al Forn de Vigilia
Arròs al forn de vigilia is Valencia's meatless baked rice for Cuaresma: chickpeas, potato, tomato, and a whole garlic head set in a clay cazuela and baked dry, with no stirring.
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Arròs amb fesols i naps is Valencian spoon rice from La Safor and La Marina: white beans, winter turnips, and pork cooked into a broth rich enough to take the rice without turning dry.
Arròs amb fesols i naps is Valencian, a winter arròs caldós from the huerta and the comarques of La Safor and La Marina: round rice, white beans, turnips, and pork cooked loose enough to eat with a spoon. It is not paella, and it doesn't want the dry, separate finish of paella. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, with the rice going in only at the end.
The method that decides it is the broth before the rice. Beans and pork must simmer until the beans are creamy and the liquid tastes finished; only then do you add the rice. If the broth is thin, the rice has nothing to drink. If the rice goes in too early, it swells while the beans are still hard. No drama, just order.
If you're far from Valencia, use a small dried white bean such as cannellini or Great Northern, soaked overnight, and small firm turnips, or rutabaga if napicol is what you can mimic. Valencia rice, Senia, J. Sendra, or Bahia is right; bomba works with more water, and arborio at a pinch will be creamier and less clear. No hace falta haber pisado España. Measure the broth before the rice goes in, pésalo, no lo adivines. Siempre sale, si lo sigues. My Margin says only this: leave it soupy, the rice is greedy.
Arròs amb fesols i naps belongs to the Valencian winter larder, especially La Safor, La Marina, La Ribera, and the huerta around Valencia, where rice fields, market-garden turnips, and the household pig met in the same pot. In many villages the dish is cooked as a caldera, a great cauldron rice for feast days and winter gatherings, because beans and rice could feed a crowd while a little pork from the matança flavored the whole pot. It is an arròs caldós, a brothy rice, not a paella; the proof is the spoon and the broth left shining in the bowl.
Quantity
300g
soaked overnight
Quantity
350g
Quantity
1, about 450g
split lengthwise
Quantity
350g
cut into individual ribs
Quantity
150g
cut into 3cm pieces
Quantity
2, about 180g
left whole
Quantity
500g
peeled and cut into 3cm chunks
Quantity
1, about 150g
grated, skin discarded
Quantity
3
finely chopped or pounded
Quantity
45ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
0.2g
lightly crushed
Quantity
2.5 litres, plus hot water as needed
Quantity
18g, plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried white beans (fesols blancs)soaked overnight | 300g |
| Valencian short-grain rice, such as Senia, J. Sendra, or Bahia | 350g |
| pig's trotter or fresh pork hocksplit lengthwise | 1, about 450g |
| pork ribscut into individual ribs | 350g |
| panceta or tocino frescocut into 3cm pieces | 150g |
| morcilla de cebollaleft whole | 2, about 180g |
| white turnips or napicolpeeled and cut into 3cm chunks | 500g |
| ripe tomatograted, skin discarded | 1, about 150g |
| garlic clovesfinely chopped or pounded | 3 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 45ml |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| saffron threadslightly crushed | 0.2g |
| cold water | 2.5 litres, plus hot water as needed |
| fine sea salt | 18g, plus more to taste |
The night before, cover the dried beans with plenty of cold water and leave them to soak for 10 to 12 hours. Drain them before cooking. Don't skip this; unsoaked beans cook unevenly, and by the time the middle softens the outside has already tired itself out.
Warm the olive oil in a 6 to 7 litre heavy pot over medium heat. Brown the pork ribs, trotter, and panceta for 8 to 10 minutes, turning them so they color in patches. Add the turnip pieces and let their cut faces pick up a little gold, then lift the turnips to a bowl. They come back later, when they can soften without collapsing.
Lower the heat and add the garlic to the pork. Stir for 30 seconds, then add the grated tomato and cook it down for 8 to 10 minutes, until it darkens and the oil shows at the edge. Pull the pot off the heat, stir in the sweet pimentón, and let it bloom for a few seconds. Pimentón burns bitter, so don't make it prove anything.
Add the drained beans and 2.5 litres cold water. Bring the pot up slowly, skim off the grey foam, then lower the heat to a steady gentle simmer. Cook for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, until the beans are mostly tender and the pork is giving flavor to the broth. Keep a kettle of hot water nearby and top up only if the beans threaten to sit above the liquid.
Return the browned turnips to the pot with the saffron and 18g salt. Simmer 35 to 45 minutes more, until the turnips are tender, the beans are creamy, and the broth tastes like something you would happily eat before the rice ever arrives. That is the point. The rice is not there to rescue a weak pot.
Before adding the rice, check the liquid. For 350g rice you want about 1.9 litres of broth in the pot, counting the beans, pork, and turnips sitting in it. If it is low, add hot water; if it is swimming, boil uncovered for a few minutes. Taste for salt now. The broth should be fully seasoned, because rice eats salt as it cooks.
Bring the pot to a lively simmer and scatter in the rice. Stir once so it doesn't clump, then cook 8 minutes. Nestle the whole morcillas on top and cook 8 to 10 minutes more, moving the spoon gently around the bottom only if the rice wants to catch. The grains should be tender with a little bite, and the pot should still be brothy.
Take the pot off the heat and rest it 5 minutes, no longer. Slice the morcillas into thick coins and give each bowl rice, beans, turnip, pork, and a piece of morcilla. Serve at once with spoons. Arròs caldós waits for nobody; ten extra minutes and the rice drinks the broth you worked for.
1 serving (about 590g)
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