Arròs al Forn de Vigilia

Arròs al forn de vigilia is Valencian, a clay-baked rice for Cuaresma, when the usual ribs, panceta, and morcilla stay out of the cazuela. Chickpeas, potato, tomato, pimentón, a little saffron if you have it, and a whole garlic head do the work instead. It is not paella, and it is not the pork-rich arròs al forn of a feast day. It is the widowed one, viudo, and if you measure the broth it has its own strength.

The method that decides it is the broth and the oven. The rice goes into a hot cazuela with hot chickpea broth, measured exactly, then you leave it alone. Stir after that and the starch works loose. Guess the liquid and you get a wet bottom or a chalky centre. Pésalo, no lo adivines: weigh it, don't guess.

If you can't find Valencian rice where you are, use arroz redondo sold for paella, Calasparra, or bomba. If cooked chickpeas are what you have, use them without shame, but heat a light vegetable stock with bay and garlic so the rice doesn't taste thin. No hace falta haber pisado España. You do need short-grain rice, hot broth, and the nerve to stop touching it.

My Margin beside this one says only: hot dish, hot broth, hands off. The top should dry and crust in patches, the potato edges should go dark gold, and the garlic should soften enough to press into the rice. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.