
Chef Takumi
Coarse-Sugar Senbei (ざらめせんべい, Zarame Senbei)
Zarame senbei is not a cookie wearing a Japanese coat. It is a rice cracker, dried well, baked crisp, brushed with soy, then caught while hot with coarse sugar.
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Arare begins as firm mochi, cut small and dried until patient enough to puff. Brush it with soy at the end, and the little hailstones turn crisp and savory.
Arare looks like a confectioner's trick: tiny pieces of mochi that puff into crisp little stones, light enough to vanish with tea. It isn't difficult. It only asks you to do the part modern recipes like to skip, which is to let the cut mochi dry properly.
The first secret is dryness. Fresh mochi is too full of water to crisp cleanly; it softens, slumps, and sulks in the oven like a child denied a sweet. Dry it until the surface feels hard and the edges show small cracks, and the heat can turn the trapped moisture inside into lift. That is the puff. Nothing mysterious.
Use mochi-gome, glutinous rice, in the form of plain kirimochi, the firm blocks sold for New Year cooking. Cut it small, because arare means hail, not cobblestones. We season it with soy only after it has puffed, so the surface stays dry enough to crisp before it takes on that dark, salty shine.
Arare belongs beside tea, in lunch bundles, and in the small comforts that keep well without fuss. Make it ahead and serve only a modest bowl. Leave it room. A cracker this small teaches restraint better than a sermon.
Arare takes its name from arare, the Japanese word for hail, because the crackers are smaller than senbei and resemble little hailstones. Rice crackers made from mochi became closely tied to New Year households, when hardened kagami mochi or leftover mochi could be dried, broken, and fried or roasted instead of wasted. A sweet colored form, hina-arare, is associated with Hinamatsuri on March 3, though seasonings and colors differ between eastern and western Japan.
Quantity
6 pieces (about 300g total)
cut into 1cm cubes
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 sheet
cut into thin strips
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain kirimochi (firm rectangular mochi blocks)cut into 1cm cubes | 6 pieces (about 300g total) |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| soy sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| mirin | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted nori (optional)cut into thin strips | 1 sheet |
| toasted white sesame seeds (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
Cut the kirimochi into small cubes, about 1cm across. Use a sturdy knife and press straight down rather than sawing. Small pieces dry evenly and puff into true arare; large pieces stay chewy in the center, which is pleasant in soup and wrong here.
Spread the mochi cubes on a wire rack or parchment-lined tray with space between them. Leave them uncovered in a cool, dry place for 2 to 3 days, turning once a day, until they feel hard on the surface and show tiny cracks at the edges.
Heat the oven to 160C, or 325F. Line a baking sheet with parchment and brush it lightly with the neutral oil. The oil keeps the mochi from gripping the paper while the first puff happens, when the pieces are still tacky.
Arrange the dried mochi in a single layer, leaving room for each piece to swell. Bake for 14 to 18 minutes, shaking the pan once, until the pieces puff, turn dry and crisp at the edges, and show pale gold spots. Pull them before they brown deeply; scorched rice tastes bitter fast.
While the arare bakes, warm the soy sauce, mirin, and sugar in a small pan just until the sugar dissolves. You are making a thin soy glaze, not a syrup. Thick glaze clumps on these small crackers and steals their crispness.
Tip the hot puffed arare into a bowl and brush or drizzle over the soy glaze a little at a time, tossing quickly. Return them to the tray and bake 2 to 3 minutes more, just until the surface looks dry and lacquered. Seasoning at the end keeps the soy from burning before the mochi has finished puffing.
Scatter over the nori and sesame, if using, while the surface is still faintly tacky. Let the arare cool completely on the tray before storing. They crisp as they cool, and a closed jar too soon traps moisture, the enemy you spent two days driving away.
1 serving (about 27g)
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