Alambres de Mariscos Nayaritas

Nayarit, from San Blas down toward Bahia de Banderas, knows what to do with seafood before the tourist menus get involved. These alambres de mariscos belong to the Pacific coast of Occidente: shrimp, octopus, firm white fish, pineapple, onion, and peppers cooked over wood charcoal under a palapa, passed around with tortillas, lime, and salsa. This is not food from one generic Mexico. Cada estado, su propia cocina.

The adobo is what makes the skewer nayarita: chile guajillo for color, chile de arbol for bite, garlic, lime, tamarind, a little soy sauce, and Mexican oregano. That soy is not a mistake. The Pacific coast remembers trade. The Manila Galleon left ingredients and habits that still show up in Nayarit, Colima, and Guerrero, especially with seafood. Preguntale a las senoras del mercado and they will tell you: the coast cooks with what the coast has carried.

The octopus must be cooked before it touches the skewer. Raw octopus on the grill turns tough while the shrimp overcook and the fish falls apart. No me vengas con atajos. Cook the octopus first, marinate everything briefly, and grill hot so the edges char before the seafood dries. The pineapple belongs there because it cuts the chile and salt with juice. The table needs clay plates, warm corn tortillas, lime halves, and a molcajete of salsa. La cocina no es decoracion, es trabajo.