Agedashi Tofu (揚げ出し豆腐)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy small pot or wok for frying
• •Thermometer, or dry chopsticks for checking oil activity
• •Wire rack or paper-lined tray
• •Small saucepan for the dashi broth
• •Oroshigane grater for daikon and ginger, or a fine rasp grater

Instructions

1. 1

   Drain the tofu

   Wrap the tofu in a clean cloth or paper towels and set it on a tray. Rest a light plate on top for 15 to 20 minutes, just enough to draw off surface water without crushing it. The tofu must still be tender inside, but its surface needs to be dry so the starch can cling instead of sliding away.

   Don't press it as if you're making a brick. Agedashi tofu wants a custardy center, not dry toughness.
2. 2

   Make the broth

   Combine the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar if using in a small pot. Bring it just to a simmer, then keep it warm. The broth should be ready before the tofu fries, because the fried coat is at its best for only a short time and shouldn't wait politely on the counter.

3. 3

   Cut and coat

   Cut the tofu into 8 even pieces and pat every side dry. Spread the katakuriko in a shallow tray and coat each piece lightly, tapping off the excess. Do this right before frying. Starch that sits on damp tofu turns gluey, and gluey starch makes a heavy coat instead of a thin shell.

4. 4

   Fry the tofu

   Heat 1 1/2 inches of neutral oil to 170 to 180°C, or until a pinch of starch sizzles at once and stays pale. Fry the tofu in batches, turning gently, until the outside is crisp and faintly golden, about 2 minutes. Crowding drops the oil temperature, and low oil gives you greasy tofu, not a clean shell.

   Use chopsticks or a slotted spoon with a light hand. The tofu is stronger once the starch sets, but not before.
5. 5

   Drain briefly

   Lift the tofu onto a rack or paper-lined tray for less than a minute. This removes excess oil, but don't let it cool. Agedashi tofu is a conversation between hot broth and crisp starch, and both sides need to arrive on time.

6. 6

   Bowl and serve

   Set two pieces of tofu in each small bowl with a little height. Pour hot broth around them, not over the tops, so the upper edges keep their crispness for a moment. Add grated daikon, ginger, scallion, and a small pinch of shichimi tōgarashi if you like. Serve at once.

Chef Tips

• •Use momen tofu for the easiest handling. Kinugoshi, silken tofu, is lovely but fragile, and it asks for a steadier hand. Start with firm tofu and you'll still get the soft heart this dish is known for.
• •Potato starch gives the clean, crisp coat we want. Cornstarch works as a stand-in, but say what it is: useful, not the same. Katakuriko has a lighter finish and drinks the broth beautifully.
• •For a meatless table, make the dashi from konbu and dried shiitake. That belongs to the temple kitchen tradition and keeps the dish honmono, not lesser.
• •Do not use instant dashi granules here. The broth touches every bite, so any flat saltiness has nowhere to hide.

Advance Preparation

• •The dashi broth can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated. Warm it gently before frying the tofu.
• •Daikon and ginger can be grated an hour ahead, but keep them covered and chilled. Squeeze the daikon lightly just before serving.
• •Do not coat or fry the tofu ahead. The starch shell is the dish's brief gift, and reheating makes it dull.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 180g)