
Chef Lesia
Buryakova Zakvaska (бурякова закваска, beet kvas)
A jar of grated beets turns ordinary water into sour red light, the kind that wakes borshch from inside instead of shouting over it.
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The tomatoes go from garden-red to brick-red while the peppers slump and the garlic waits. By the end, the spoon leaves a path and the whole south fits in one jar.
The tomatoes don't stay red. They darken. First garden-red, then brick-red, then the kind of glowing red that stains the wooden spoon and makes you understand why August needs jars. This is the southern garden concentrated: tomato, sweet pepper, chilli, garlic, salt, oil, nothing shy.
Adzhyka po-Ukrainsky is the Ukrainian home-kitchen answer to a relish that travelled north from the Caucasus and found itself in our litnya kuhnia, the summer kitchen, where buckets of tomatoes waited under the table and every aunt had a different heat level. Mine cooks down until the wet hiss turns to a thick, lazy blup and the spoon leaves a clean path. Aunt Nadia wrote only "until it sounds right," which was rude of her, but she was correct.
The one thing that decides it is the garlic. Add it late, after the tomatoes and peppers have lost their raw water, so it stays bright and hot instead of boiling into dullness. Then jar it, cool it, and let tomorrow do its work; by morning it has stopped shouting and started singing. Spoon it onto roasted meat, fried eggs, potatoes, bread, or a bowl of borshch that wants a little fire.
Adzhyka began in the western Caucasus as a fierce salt, chilli and herb paste, especially in Abkhaz and Georgian kitchens, before market routes and Soviet-era home cooking carried the name across the Black Sea world. In Ukraine, especially the tomato-rich south, it became a cooked garden relish for jars: sweeter, redder, and built for bread, meat, potatoes and winter tables. There is no single Ukrainian ratio; village cooks still argue over apples, carrots, vinegar, oil and how much chilli a respectable family can survive.
Quantity
2 kg
cored and roughly chopped
Quantity
800g
cored, deseeded and roughly chopped
Quantity
2 to 6
stems removed, seeds kept or scraped to taste
Quantity
80g, about 1 large head
peeled
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
28g
plus more to taste
Quantity
30g
plus more if the tomatoes are sharp
Quantity
60ml cider vinegar or 40ml white vinegar
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe tomatoescored and roughly chopped | 2 kg |
| red sweet pepperscored, deseeded and roughly chopped | 800g |
| hot red chilliesstems removed, seeds kept or scraped to taste | 2 to 6 |
| garlicpeeled | 80g, about 1 large head |
| unrefined sunflower oil | 80ml |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 28g |
| sugarplus more if the tomatoes are sharp | 30g |
| apple cider vinegar or 9 percent white vinegar | 60ml cider vinegar or 40ml white vinegar |
| ground coriander (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
Put the tomatoes, sweet peppers and chillies through a meat grinder, food processor or blender until rough and juicy, not baby food smooth. Keep the garlic aside. Its moment comes later, when the pot has earned it.
Pour the tomato-pepper mixture into a wide heavy pot with the salt, sugar and coriander if using. Bring it to a lively simmer, then lower the heat and stir across the bottom often. At first it smells raw and green, and the bubbles spit like rain on a tin roof. Later the red darkens, the hiss turns to thick blups, and a spoon dragged through the pot leaves a path for a breath before closing.
Stir in the sunflower oil once the mixture has stopped looking watery. The oil should shine briefly on the surface, then disappear into the relish and carry the pepper color with it. Add it too early and you spend the afternoon chasing greasy splashes around the stove.
Crush the garlic with a pinch of salt until sticky and fragrant, then stir it into the thick relish with the vinegar. Simmer gently until the raw garlic sharpness settles but still reaches your nose when you lean over the pot. Taste now: it should be salty, sweet, sour and hot, with the tomatoes holding everyone together.
Ladle the hot relish into clean hot jars, tap out air pockets, wipe the rims and close the lids. Cool, then refrigerate. Let it rest overnight before judging it properly; chilli grows louder in the jar and garlic settles into the tomatoes by morning.
1 serving (about 260g)
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