
Chef Joost
Anijsmelk
Anijsmelk is the Dutch night drink of cold hands and quiet kitchens: milk, anise, a little butter, and the sweet medicinal smell every child remembers.
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Advocaat is the Dutch liqueur you eat with a spoon: brandewijn, yolks and sugar turned into a glossy Easter glass, with a hat of slagroom and no apology.
In my grandmother's second notebook, advocaat was not filed under drinks. It lived among Easter things: painted eggs in an old bowl, a cake under a cloth, and the small glasses brought from the cabinet only when children were told, with great seriousness, that this was for grown-ups. The adults did not sip it. They ate it with a spoon, because proper Dutch advocaat should be thick enough to make a little hill under its cap of slagroom, whipped cream.
But let me tell you a secret. The name is more troublesome than the drink. Advocaat means lawyer, and the old name advocatenborrel, lawyer's tipple, is usually explained as a soothing little glass for people who made their living with their throats. There is also the colonial avocado story, often tied to Suriname and Brazil, but the documents are less tidy than the tale. I won't sell you certainty where the archive gives only a raised eyebrow.
The cooking is honest and a little unforgiving only if you hurry it. Egg yolks thicken gently; alcohol makes them sulk if the heat is rude. So we use a bain-marie, a bowl over barely simmering water, and stir until the custard coats a spoon. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: good brandewijn, fresh yolks, sugar, vanilla, patience. Then into the refrigerator, where it settles into exuberant cookery in a frugal country.
Advocaat appears in Dutch sources under the fuller name advocatenborrel, lawyer's drink, and by the nineteenth century the word was attached to a thick egg-and-brandy liqueur served in small glasses. Explanations of the name divide between the lawyer's-throat story and an older avocado theory connected to Dutch colonial households in Suriname and Brazil; the first is better documented in Dutch language sources, the second remains debated. By the early twentieth century, home manuals and commercial bottlers had fixed the Dutch version as yolks, sugar and brandewijn, a spoonable holiday liqueur for Easter, Christmas and family visits.
Quantity
10
room temperature
Quantity
175g
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
300ml
35-40% ABV
Quantity
1 bean or 2 teaspoons
bean split and scraped
Quantity
150ml
softly whipped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large egg yolksroom temperature | 10 |
| fine caster sugar | 175g |
| fine sea salt | 1 pinch |
| Dutch brandewijn or smooth brandy35-40% ABV | 300ml |
| vanilla bean or vanilla extractbean split and scraped | 1 bean or 2 teaspoons |
| whipping cream (slagroom) (optional)softly whipped | 150ml |
Set a saucepan with 3cm of water over low heat and bring it to the barest simmer. Choose a heatproof bowl that sits over the pan without touching the water. This is the whole safeguard of advocaat: gentle heat below, constant attention above.
Put the egg yolks, sugar, salt, and vanilla seeds or extract into the bowl. Whisk for 2 to 3 minutes until the mixture turns paler, thicker, and falls from the whisk in a slow ribbon. The sugar protects the yolks a little, which matters once the brandewijn joins the party.
Whisk in the brandewijn slowly, a little at a time, until the mixture is smooth and loose. If you pour the alcohol in all at once, the yolks can turn grainy before the heat has even had its say. A calm hand now buys you a silky glass later.
Set the bowl over the barely simmering water and stir constantly with a silicone spatula, scraping the bottom and sides, for 12 to 18 minutes. Cook until the advocaat reaches 70 to 71C and coats the back of a spoon in a thick yellow layer; draw your finger through it and the line should hold. Do not let it boil. Boiled advocaat becomes sweet scrambled egg, and no lawyer can argue it back into liqueur.
Pour the warm advocaat through a fine sieve into a clean jug, then transfer it to a clean bottle or jar. Let it cool for 20 minutes, seal it, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. It thickens as it rests, which is why impatience gives you a drink and patience gives you advocaat.
Stir the chilled advocaat gently before serving. Spoon or pour it into small liqueur glasses, top each with a soft cap of slagroom, whipped cream, and give everyone a teaspoon. I prefer to keep it a bit more relaxed, in the Dutch way: small glass, small spoon, large satisfaction.
1 serving (about 95g)
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